Author Topic: Anodes (Read 16710 times)

Brian · « **on:** December 31 2012, 10:01 »

I have just taken over the maintenance of my Bavaria 44. On inspecting the hull when it was out of the water I was unable to locate any anodes either on the hull or the saildrive. Am I being stupid and not looking in the right place?

njsail · « **Reply #1 on:** December 31 2012, 11:18 »

Brian - There should be a zinc on the sail-drive right between the sail-leg and the prop. It is usually moulded to the shape of the cowling on the sail drive. The prop usually has to be removed to replace it. There are also two bolts that attach the zinc to the aluminium sail-drive. They should be checked yearly to see if they have experienced corrosion.

Odysseus · « **Reply #2 on:** December 31 2012, 12:18 »

Can I suggest you use this type of bolt as they are much better than cross heads, and there is an issue of the bolt loosening when used on the sail leg anode.
Also use locktite 243.

Odysseus

MIA · « **Reply #3 on:** January 01 2013, 08:11 »

Brian

heres a photo of my anode

Rampage · « **Reply #4 on:** January 01 2013, 11:02 »

And generally speaking there are no other anodes present on the boat. Unless you have a folding prop, in which case there may well be an anode on that.

njsail · « **Reply #5 on:** January 01 2013, 14:41 »

why does your anode appear painted? It looks like part of the anode has sail leg paint on it. If that's true the zinc won't function to it's full ability. I might be seeing the pic wrong.

MIA · « **Reply #6 on:** January 02 2013, 04:18 »

The anode had some paint on it but it doing what it was meant to do, it was also eaten away from the inside as well, the boat yard painted it the last time before it was launched, so I done it this time and didnt paint the anode. You can see the new anode below the prop.

The anode had to be machined out because of the rope cutter to enable the prop to be located correctly.

Stevie

njsail · « **Reply #7 on:** January 02 2013, 11:19 »

Nicely finished prop. I've been thinking about putting a rope cutter on but have been hesitating since it looks like a tight fit. I guess if you had to machine the anode then my assumption might be right. My area just started to be inundated by crab pots. It's not as bad as Maine lobster traps but I find myself running the gauntlet when I'm coming in or out of the river. It's really annoying and the pot floats are really dark colors that are hard to see. I know a few people who have already fallen victim to the ropes.

MIA · « **Reply #8 on:** January 02 2013, 14:33 »

I had to get about 10mm milled out so that the prop could be seated correctly. You also have to drill a 10-12mm hole to locate the pin for the base (the bit that doesn't turn) of the rope cutter. I'm lucky that I can get a friend to do this as he has a precision Eng company or get it done offshore at work. I think its worth while having.

Odysseus · « **Reply #9 on:** January 02 2013, 15:34 »

It is a differant anode for the a saildrive with a cutter on it, as you say a slot has to be milled out but you can buy them like that,(with slot in )

Photo attached for better view of anode with cutter.

Odysseus

Ripster · « **Reply #10 on:** January 02 2013, 15:49 »

No one has mentioned a hull anode? On my 36 (2011) I have both SD and a hull anode. Does anyone else have both or is it just me?

njsail · « **Reply #11 on:** January 02 2013, 23:50 »

Ok you have piqued my interest - what hull anode?

Odysseus - thank you for the line cutter pic. It looks like a nice setup.

MIA · « **Reply #12 on:** January 03 2013, 04:50 »

Quote from: Ripster on January 02 2013, 15:49

No one has mentioned a hull anode? On my 36 (2011) I have both SD and a hull anode. Does anyone else have both or is it just me?

I don't have a hull anode on my Bav 39

Stevie

Symphony · « **Reply #13 on:** January 03 2013, 13:42 »

Quote from: njsail on January 02 2013, 23:50

Ok you have piqued my interest - what hull anode?

Odysseus - thank you for the line cutter pic. It looks like a nice setup.

Rope cutter (and spare anodes) available from www.ropestripper.com Well worth having as line around the prop can cause serious damage to the saildrive. Sometimes covered by insurance - worth checking, but repairs to saildrives can be very expensive.

Symphony · « **Reply #14 on:** January 03 2013, 13:43 »

Quote from: Ripster on January 02 2013, 15:49

No one has mentioned a hull anode? On my 36 (2011) I have both SD and a hull anode. Does anyone else have both or is it just me?

Hull anodes seem to be a recent thing on Bavarias. Worth checking what it is bonded to.

Ripster · « **Reply #15 on:** January 03 2013, 18:20 »

Its just a simple dome/mushroom anode about 5" dia bolted through the hull. It has a number of cables running from it. I'll try to see where they go. When I saw her out of the water last time, it was this anode that needed renewing. The SD one looked hardly touched. Perhaps Bav have identified on the later models that SD anodes are just not (may not be in certain situations) sufficient and this is a first line of defense. Its positioned about three feet to Starboard of the engine and thus the SD.

Symphony · « **Reply #16 on:** January 03 2013, 23:30 »

The obvious thing if it is for the saildrive is to be wired to the gearbox casing direct as the engine is electrically isolated from the saildrive. If so, that would reduce the wastage on the saildrive anode. However, as you have a 130 drive with the bigger anode, difficult to see why you would need it.

Hope they have not bonded the seacocks as this should really not be necessary if they are DZR or bronze.

Ripster · « **Reply #17 on:** January 06 2013, 18:11 »

The Seacocks are not bonded. Not sure about the skin fittings, but the ball valves themselves look like plated brass. These will be fine for a couple/few years as they are huge lumps. Its the skin fittings that (the threaded parts that always worry me. If you look at breakages, its generally these or the tails that snap from de-zincing.

As said, I will trace the cables through and see where they bond to and then report back.

Nigel · « **Reply #18 on:** January 06 2013, 23:00 »

Quote from: Symphony on January 03 2013, 23:30

... the engine is electrically isolated from the saildrive.

I keep being told this, but I can see no evidence for such isolation on my 120S. What form does it take?

Symphony · « **Reply #19 on:** January 07 2013, 16:51 »

Quote from: Nigel on January 06 2013, 23:00

Quote from: Symphony on January 03 2013, 23:30
... the engine is electrically isolated from the saildrive.

I keep being told this, but I can see no evidence for such isolation on my 120S. What form does it take?

As per the response on the YBW Forum there is an isolating gasket between the engine and the gearbox. You won't see it unless you split the two - for example if you are replacing the diaphragm. It is there from new build so no chance of it not being there still You can't see it when the two bits are together.

Roland Hobden · « **Reply #20 on:** January 19 2013, 17:29 »

My Bavaria 32 Cruiser has just come out of the water 9 months after launch, and there was no sign of an anode, on the hull, just a shaft which should have had an anode attached. Either no anode was fitted in error, it's dropped off during the season, or it's eroded away. Boat yard have fitted a largish doughnut shaped anode which is mounted on a stainless steel plate backed up with a stainless steel penny washer.

Obviously my Bavaria should have had an anode, but I did notice a 39 in the boat yard which had no anode at all and seemingly no where to mount one.

Symphony · « **Reply #21 on:** January 20 2013, 20:04 »

No. No reason why it should have an anode. If one was fitted originally it would have been wired to something in the boat. If it was not there it was never fitted - nor needed. Your boatyard should explain to you why they have fitted it and what they have bonded it to.

Normally hull anodes are fitted and bonded to the propeller on a shaft drive boat because the shaft and prop are different materials. On a saildrive boat such as yours this job is done by the ring anode on the drive leg and possibly an anode on the prop if you have a bronze folding or feathering prop.