Author Topic: Roller Genoa blocks - where? (Read 6310 times)

Sitesurfer · « **on:** September 30 2018, 11:24 »

I’m sat on the new to me boat scratching me head. Have figured out the majority of the lines on this B36 2002 except for the complete abscense of blocks for the Genoa furling line.

Do they normally (as in last boat) attach stanchion blocks down one side? There’s no clear for the furling line either - I’m quite stumped!

Perhaps anyone has a pic of theirs?

sunshine · « **Reply #1 on:** September 30 2018, 11:54 »

There's a small gap between the stanchion base and the toe rail. Run the furling line through there for all the stanchions. It actually runs more smoothly than you think it would, but you can add a small pulley on the pullpit to optimise the entry into the roller furler if you like.

MarkTheBike · « **Reply #2 on:** September 30 2018, 11:57 »

Hi SiteSurfer
Haven't managed to get down for your 'heater' photos yet (trying again today) so I'll do ones of my furling line at the same time. On the B34, furling line runs from drum, through small blocks at each port stanchion base and then through a cheek-jammer just behind the sheet winch. There are a few minor variations mentioned in the forum (mainly to do with cleating) but that's the general gist...

Lyra · « **Reply #3 on:** September 30 2018, 14:13 »

Just a sunshine wrote - between stanchion base and toerail.
Probably a bit more friction than blocks, but literally out of the way and less mechanical items that can fail.

Symphony · « **Reply #4 on:** September 30 2018, 16:20 »

Some boats of that era like my old 37 had small sheaves built into the stanchion base but they wore out and almost impossible to replace. The running in the gap at the stanchion base is OK but on my new boat I have fitted Harken double roller fairleads on the stanchions with a block on the pulpit guardrail eye to give a fair lead then a Harken jamming ratchet block attached to the pushpit to replace the jamming footblock. The difference has to be experienced to believe!

There are other more economical stanchion block set ups, all of which will be an improvement on the standard.

MarkTheBike · « **Reply #5 on:** September 30 2018, 18:53 »

Hi SiteSurfer
Here's just a couple of pics to show the type of stanchion blocks and the cheek jammer. You'll see the furling line runs through a deck eye; that's just to supply a bit of friction to the line when unfurling - helps to prevent jams in the furling drum. I tend to pull in the line forward of this when furling (and, yes, I KNOW the deck's grubby at the moment! It's on the 'list'...

)

sy_Anniina · « **Reply #6 on:** October 02 2018, 07:32 »

2001 vintage B40 aft-cockpit has tiny sheaves built into the stanchion bases. In my experience the friction is reasonable - I roll in mostly without winch.

See attached photo

Sitesurfer · « **Reply #7 on:** October 02 2018, 16:21 »

Nope nothing like that on mine, they are just plain stanchions.

Ignore the bent stanchion, thats a W.I.P

Symphony · « **Reply #8 on:** October 02 2018, 17:59 »

Seems you need stanchion blocks. Force 4 stock Spinlock and Barton but there are others. As suggested earlier I fitted Harken double roller ones, but a bit more expensive.

tiger79 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 02 2018, 18:26 »

As Sunshine and Lyra said, you should have a gap in the stanchion base through which the furling line can be routed. Here's what it looks like on mine...

Sitesurfer · « **Reply #10 on:** October 02 2018, 19:09 »

No - there's no room at the inn, never mind - I have ordered a set of spinlock stanchion blocks.
Thanks for the help and information though, much appreciated.

Lyra · « **Reply #11 on:** October 03 2018, 06:00 »

Odd - from your second photo it looks like there is a gap between the stanchion base and the toe rail, but I guess you can see better on site.

Sitesurfer · « **Reply #12 on:** October 03 2018, 08:06 »

I'll of course check again this weekend, wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong about stuff, it does rather suggest that there should be a gap there - it's possibly that I'm not looking at the obvious due to my lack of knowledge.

Kibo · « **Reply #13 on:** October 03 2018, 17:25 »

.....even if the gap is there it is a notorious binding spot and separate blocks are much better as stated before.

My newer boat doesn't even have the gaps and blocks built in to the bases.

Bertie1972 · « **Reply #14 on:** October 03 2018, 20:02 »

Quote from: Symphony on September 30 2018, 16:20

Some boats of that era like my old 37 had small sheaves built into the stanchion base but they wore out and almost impossible to replace. The running in the gap at the stanchion base is OK but on my new boat I have fitted Harken double roller fairleads on the stanchions with a block on the pulpit guardrail eye to give a fair lead then a Harken jamming ratchet block attached to the pushpit to replace the jamming footblock. The difference has to be experienced to believe!

I've been thinking about this - just Googled Harken double roller fairleads, but am not which you were referring to - do you have a link/pic plse?

artemis · « **Reply #15 on:** October 03 2018, 22:26 »

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=stanchion+roller+blocks&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Astanchion+roller+blocks

Have a look on Amazon

Rgds
Mike
Artemis

Symphony · « **Reply #16 on:** October 03 2018, 22:33 »

Quote from: Bertie1972 on October 03 2018, 20:02

Quote from: Symphony on September 30 2018, 16:20
Some boats of that era like my old 37 had small sheaves built into the stanchion base but they wore out and almost impossible to replace. The running in the gap at the stanchion base is OK but on my new boat I have fitted Harken double roller fairleads on the stanchions with a block on the pulpit guardrail eye to give a fair lead then a Harken jamming ratchet block attached to the pushpit to replace the jamming footblock. The difference has to be experienced to believe!

I've been thinking about this - just Googled Harken double roller fairleads, but am not which you were referring to - do you have a link/pic plse?

Their range of furling lead blocks is on page 207 of their catalogue. Illustrated top right hand showing installation on a stanchion. Part no 7403. Unlike most they lead round the outside of the stanchions so you don't have anything protruding over the deck. I also have a jamming block instead of using the jamming footblock that is standard. On my 33 it is too far forward and low down on the deck to be reached easily. The new block is attached to the pushpit leg. not sure it is a standard item as Harken made it up for me.

Bertie1972 · « **Reply #17 on:** October 03 2018, 23:07 »

Many thanks Symphony - I understand now.

I didn't know such a thing existed, a very neat solution.

Sitesurfer · « **Reply #18 on:** October 08 2018, 13:12 »

I’ve put the spinlock stanchion mounts on the boat - still way too much friction.
Now am thinking of changing the furling line.

Symphony · « **Reply #19 on:** October 08 2018, 18:29 »

Do you have a block on the pulpit to make a good lead from the drum to the first stanchion? Essential on fairleads like the Spinlock rather than the Barton ones which use blocks.

Salty · « **Reply #20 on:** October 08 2018, 22:19 »

Quote from: Sitesurfer on September 30 2018, 11:24

.
.
Do they normally (as in last boat) attach stanchion blocks down one side? There’s no clear for the furling line either - I’m quite stumped!
.

I didn’t use blocks as such but instead used clamp on bullseye fairleads on each side rail stanchion from forward until at a point near enough for a direct lead to the rope jamming foot block mounted on the side of the cockpit coaming.