2020D seawater pump removal

[Boatname]

Bav 34 2001 seawater dripping into engine bilge.

Changed rear seal about 5 years ago, easy and cheap, but started leaking again and a new seal late last year didn't fix it, so need to remove pump to have a new shaft fitted.

Impossible.

The two front bolts are easy but there are two that come in from the rear which even if you can get a spanner or socket on are impossible to turn.

Been told I have to remove engine mount which looks easy but really cant see a way to lift the engine weight off.

Considered wooden chocks under the sump but space severely limited.

Anyone done it?

T.I.A

[Symphony]

It is possible to get at the heads of the bolts, but you need to modify a spanner and then you can only turn one flat at a time. However if you block the engine up under the sump you can remove the engine mount from the cylinder block.

[Boatname]

Thanks but modify a spanner to what shape? Cut it shorter? If it’s open ended I can’t see what else to do. And blocking the engine. I’m sure that with a lot of experimentation and luck I can find some wood that will fit but that in itself doesn’t take the weight off the mounts bolts. So lots of wood followed by a chock? Really not that easy. Whenever I change the filters and oil goes into the sump I actually have to almost turn my arm/wrist/hand into an S shape to clean up. It really is very tight.

[Boatname]

Here’s a pic.  The red arrows are resting on the solid surround that makes up the sump. I can’t get the wood out that holds up the lower step ... all screws undone and light hammer action. You can see the lack of workable gap and it’s perhaps marginally better coming in from the port side ... but it still looks impossible to get wood plus a wedge PLUS hit the wedge with a hammer to take the engine weight.

Then I would have to get the wedge out. 😕

[Yngmar]

I have a different engine, but looks like this would work for you too: I levered my engine up with a timber bar resting on the plywood you see in the bottom of your photo (protect the varnish with a rag or some rubber). I could then insert supports underneath and slide it where I needed it to be (forward in my case, for saildrive/gearbox removal).

[Boatname]

That’s an interesting idea thanks but I don’t think I’ll get the right angle from the wood down into underneath the engine but it’s worth looking at. If it’s say 45 degrees I think that the effort on the engine is going to be as much backwards as upwards. I also have the problem that the lever has to be quite thin due to the very small gap.

Appreciate all the suggestions.

[Lyra]

I don't know about the 34 but on my 36 it is possible to remove this vertical plate - 4 or 6 screws on the sides.

[Moodymike]

This is a brief note from another website on how to remove the bolts

 Because the impellor chamber is offset to the rest of the pump it is not possible to have all the bolts in the same direction. As you face it, the two bolts on the left are straightforward and easily removed. The two bolts on the right are a different proposition. They are the other way around. They come from the back of the pump and have no nuts but are threaded into the body of the pump. A short 12mm spanner working from in front and below the pump will, with a lot of contortions and swearing, back off the bottom bolt, but not free it! You eventually back up the bolt till it fouls one of the struts that support the engine. Leave it, we will come back to it later. Move on to the top bolt. Go to the back of the engine and with some jiggling, some luck and a 12mm socket mounted on a flexible drive you can get it! After hours of frustration, the combination that actually worked was a Stanley flexi drive screwdriver (£8.95 B&Q) which has a ¼ " drive and will take a 12mm socket. This combo had the bolt removed in 45 seconds flat, (once I had the socket located on the bolt head). This bolt will actually come out and you can then pull the whole pump forward and back off the rest of the bottom bolt, which we had abandoned earlier. With the pump off, it is home to the relative comfort of the garage. The cog is the first thing to tackle. There is a lock nut to remove, then the cog, which is a taper fit, is pulled off using a two legged gear extractor/puller (Draper, about a tenner, local Halfords or similar) The removal of the cog reveals a circlip that prevents the shaft from being released. With the circlip out the shaft can be gently tapped right through from the impellor end. This reveals the two bearings that let the shaft run smoothly and locate it centrally. In my case it also revealed a very nasty groove worn into the shaft which was preventing a good seal and causing the drip. The bearings are removed using the same puller, after two small circlips are taken off. The bearings have to be pulled off from the impellor end. Also remove the old seals from the body of the pump. New parts arrive from http://jabscoshop.co.uk. Reassemble using new circlips, new bearings, new water and oil seals, new shaft and new O ring. First put in the new oil seal; a push fit with a smear of oil. Then the bearings can be pulled on to the new shaft using the puller and the two small retaining circlips fitted. The shaft can then be tapped through from the cog end. The big retaining circlip is fitted next; then the cog. I heated up the cog and using a bit of scrap copper pipe as a drift gave it a few hefty belts to make sure it was properly on, before replacing and tightening the lock nut. Now slide on the O ring from the impellor end and push in the water seal. You now have in effect a new pump for about £90. This is half the cost of a complete new pump from Jabsco and probably about a quarter of the cost from a Volvo dealer. Before refitting my rebuilt pump I hacksawed two slots in the threaded ends of the two bolts which had been difficult to remove. This enabled me to screw drive them from the front of the pump and contortions were then only required from the back with the spanner/socket for the final tweak. All the parts came from http://jabscoshop.co.uk  which also has an excellent parts wizard to

[Boatname]

Absolutely brilliant thanks.

Just disappointed that my extensive searches didn't pick up on that answer. 

[Salty]

Bav 34 2001 seawater dripping into engine bilge
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.

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Been told I have to remove engine mount which looks easy but really cant see a way to lift the engine weight off.

Considered wooden chocks under the sump but space severely limited.

Anyone done it?

T.I.A

I’ve not done it, but if I had to I would place a piece of strong timber across the top of the companionway entrance, just above where the hatch slides in or out. Next attach a rope tackle to the strong timber, make one up from a couple pulley blocks if you haven’t got one handy, or borrow the back stay tensioning tackle and hang it off from the strong timber. On top of the engine at the forward end is a lifting eye. If you haven’t already done it, remove the hinged companionway/engine access cover. Attach the bottom block from the tackle to that lifting eye and with a little effort pulling on the rope tackle you will be able to lift the engine sufficient to take the weight off the engine mount so that you can then remove it. Be careful to mark the engine mount so that when it gets put back, that you can set it up to exactly the right length.

[Boatname]

Thanks for that Salty.

First off I’m going with the MoodyMike write-up and have already ordered a flexi drive.

I also plan to position my GoPro in the sump and wirelessly feed the view to my iPad which I will (very) carefully balance on the engine. Or my wife’s knee 

I hope that will help me locate the spanner/socket on the bolt heads.

I will give feedback... thanks again all.

[p_schurli]

About your leaky water pump shaft: the seals do not work because the shafts get corroded, but there is an easy and cheap solution: get a speedi sleeve from SKF. They can be used on any shaft for example also on the saildrive. I ordered a 12mm kit for my own waterpump. It was about 20€.

http://www.skf.com/uk/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html


Peter

[Boatname]

First of all thanks for all the above suggestions. Even though some didn’t work for me perhaps that’s just my boat/engine.

I promised to report back and appreciate that this will probably just archive but hopefully it will help someone in the future.

So to recap, it’s a 2001 34 with a 2020D engine.

And the job was a freakin’ nightmare!

Firstly there was absolutely no space with the engine mount in place to get even a conventional spanner on the top right bolt.

Here’s a Benny Hill video for you showing 45 minutes of pain moving the easier bottom right one possibly just one flat.

https://youtu.be/T9DSC_9pdZc

So off with the engine mount.

Easier than I thought ... a block of wood under the forward edge of the engine sump resting on the grp and a couple of gentle taps on a wedge was all it took.




BUT still no access to the top right bolt for a socket (so the flexible extension idea didn’t work) and when I managed to get a spanner on it was probably a quarter of a flat turn then take the spanner off, find the bolt using just fingers, try to get the spanner on, drop it, start again ... as I said ... nightmare.

Anyway, got it off and just £160 later, roughly half labour half parts, had a new shaft fitted.

See 17 years of old shaft usage



Now the good news.

A friend lent me a ratchet spanner which once on stayed on but only following the guidelines below:

Put in the two bolts that come from the back of the engine.

Hand turn them until they bite

Then put the two left hand bolts in just to make sure the pump is aligned but not so they protrude through to the back of the pump mount.

PULL THE PUMP AWAY FROM THE ENGINE!

It is essential that the two right hand bolts are flush to the rear face of the pump mount!

Without the interference of the left hand bolts poking through it was relatively simple to do up the two right hand ones but every time I released pressure on the pump the spanner would jam on the engine.

Put it another way, there is only just enough space for a spanner if the bolt head is absolutely flush with the rear of the pump mount.

The idea of a screwdriver slot in the bolts wouldn’t work for me as the impeller casing is much larger than where the bolts go through so a screwdriver just couldn’t reach the bolts.

So, job done but what a faff.

I still don’t understand why the two right hand holes are threaded. As far as I can see the thread could be drilled out and the same two bolts as the left side with nuts on would work perfectly.

I was tempted.

And ... rest.

[Boatname]

Sorry, couldn’t position the photos and preview didn’t show them at all.