Author Topic: Anchor locker drain hole too high. (Read 8766 times)

SofiaB · « **on:** May 02 2018, 05:46 »

Vision drains on both sides are too high in the locker causing galvanized chain to be submerged. Should I 1) do nothing, 2) add mega blocks to raise the chain above the water, or 3) fill and drill another hole, lower? The fact that the drains are not properly drilled bugs me and seeing some of chain in the water is annoying. Maybe a shelf if I can squeeze into that tiny hole!

dawntreader · « **Reply #1 on:** May 02 2018, 07:46 »

It's not just the Vision that has this issue - it is across the range and has been a hot topic on previous posts (although I cannot find them

). The answer is personal preference along the options you describe. Personally, I raised the level of the locker bottom by using latticed rubber matting cut to size. This keeps my chain dry without interfering with the drainage of the locker.

geoff · « **Reply #2 on:** May 02 2018, 08:27 »

I raised the floor level on my 40 ocean with a block of polyurethane foam insulation from a building site, after 17years its still doing the business. Geoff

Yngmar · « **Reply #3 on:** May 02 2018, 09:37 »

I've stacked in three layers of rubber grass protector mat to keep the chain out of the puddle. Last haulout I've also dremeled the circular drains into a tear-drop shape so they drain a little lower while still being hidden inside the original stainless covers.

Club 56 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 02 2018, 09:39 »

After most outings, day sail or a longer trip, especially if we have had water over the bow. While washing down the boat i rinse out the anchor locker with fresh water.

Agree though a false floor above the drain seems a good idea.

Cheers
Club 56

Kibo · « **Reply #5 on:** May 02 2018, 11:26 »

Stuart,

That's interesting. As you know I have the same Vision 46. 2014 model year.

On Kibo the port side drain is lower than the starboard side (never was sure why!) and we do not have this problem. I haven't checked because we never had an issue but I have to assume the Port side drain is at the height of the locker floor or very near.

I asked the anchor-person-in-chief and she confirms we have a dry (ish) locker after sailing and/or weighing anchor. The chain certainly doesn't sit in a puddle of standing water.

I guess the raising of the floor by methods described would work if you do not want to re-drill the bow drain but our setup works OK if you want to relocate the drain on one side.

Maybe it was an off day at the yard for measuring the drilling but it seems to have benefitted us.

GeoffV · « **Reply #6 on:** May 02 2018, 11:28 »

I used the rubber matting technique - cheap, quick and effectivr.

Darren · « **Reply #7 on:** May 02 2018, 16:50 »

Does anyone have the issue of water staining on the hull from the anchor drains?

I do, and on closer inspection it isn't coming from the drain hole from the locker as expected, but the screw holes for the cover plates for the drain holes? This looks completely sealed and am at a loss to how there is water coming out of the holes and more importantly how its getting behind to come out ?

Kibo · « **Reply #8 on:** May 02 2018, 17:00 »

Darren. It’s probably just rust from the screws Replace with better stainless perhaps ?

The water will circulate in and out of the locker hence the drain holes and maybe your screws go through the hull ? Anyway it’s almost certainly cosmetic so not to worry about hull integrity or similar

Darren · « **Reply #9 on:** May 02 2018, 18:03 »

Many thanks Kibo. Last time I took the anchor drain cover off, I poked a length of wire in the screw hole and it didn't appear to go right through into the locker but bottomed out at about 10mm? Very odd $:-\$

Fenders · « **Reply #10 on:** May 02 2018, 18:18 »

Same on my 32. I installed an old milk crate cut to shape and reduced the height a smidge. Does the job.

Salty · « **Reply #11 on:** May 02 2018, 22:13 »

I made up a triangular plate which is supported so that the plate sits just above the drains, the chain then rests on that plate and not in the space below the drain holes. The plate was made initially from a sheet of cardboard cut to fit the area within the chain locker, then laid up on one side with glass fibre and resin. When that had cured strips of the cardboard were cut away from the other side and then that too was covered with glass and resin. Three or four layers all thoroughly wetted with resin and rolled in and the plate was as strong as a sheet of steel once cured. Where the card had been cut away essentially formed ribs increasing the rigidity of the plate and drain holes were drilled through those rib areas. The chain remains nice and dry now, and periodic rain showers on the foredeck drain down into the chain locker helping to wash away any salt deposits. Works a treat and used up some resin and chopped strand mat that was taking up space in my garage.

Ricd · « **Reply #12 on:** May 07 2018, 11:29 »

I purchased from a farm supply store a thick (about 3cm) rubber matt (about 1mx1m) with hexagonal lattice of holes in it usually used to lay on the floor of a horse box to allow the wee to drain away. Templated this to the base of anchor locker and no more rust on chain. Being rubber it also cushions the impact of chain falling back into locker. The remaining matt I used to for the floor of the gas locker to stop the bottle base rusting.

Noelio Abrunhosa · « **Reply #13 on:** May 07 2018, 20:27 »

hi.
i believe the reason for the hole to be so high is that if you pick up mud , it doesnt clog the holes. best bet to is to fit a mat with holes so the mud still remains away from the drain and the chain stays dry
https://www.slip-not.co.uk/size/Pool-Rubber-Link-Mats-with-Drainage-Holes-B/1702?gclid=CjwKCAjw8r_XBRBkEiwAjWGLlFgcqqoY4Vur8zg_PkW0V5VWfms3NBMMp5Zh4JS2b7yq1ifnyHCRIRoCcqMQAvD_BwE#fo_c=1031&fo_k=0e114078820a00699d04b2be5fa620f4&fo_s=gplauk

this type of mat will work

regards

Abby

Ricd · « **Reply #14 on:** May 08 2018, 10:11 »

Ah that matt is exactly the matt I fitted....bought ist from a farm shop for about £20 for 1m x 1m. Works a treat.

SofiaB · « **Reply #15 on:** May 08 2018, 12:57 »

Thanks so much for the advise! Found this on Grainger.com which should do the trick after I create a cardboard template and cut it to shape.

dawntreader · « **Reply #16 on:** May 09 2018, 08:14 »

I used a double layer of the lattice as I expected the chain weight to crush the material somewhat

SofiaB · « **Reply #17 on:** May 15 2018, 05:18 »

Took your advise and raised the floor level. Attached is the result for $30 from Grainger. Thanks team!

dawntreader · « **Reply #18 on:** May 15 2018, 13:18 »

Looks good. From the photo looks like you have sloping floor to drain holes so much easier. On my B37 the floor is flat and needed to be completely covered

PEA-JAY · « **Reply #19 on:** May 18 2018, 15:52 »

This sea water remaining in the chain locker bothers me too.
When the boat is next on the hard, slightly bows up, I'll remove the chain and measure the volume of water needed until it overflows from of the lower level hole.
Next step will be to fill up the bottom of the locker with the measured volume using a suitable impermeable material.Suggestions as to which material is most suitable will be appreciated.
When back in the sea the locker should drain and dry out completely.

Stockie · « **Reply #20 on:** May 24 2018, 11:30 »

Pea jay
I do believe the holes are staggered in height, left to right and higher than the floor to allow water to remain in there to rust your chain! Seriously that’s how Bavaria set it up. But the theory is that mud from the chain will get washed back out when sailing. So a grate as suggested is probably the best solution, rather than raising the floor with resin.
I made a timber lattice for my locker, so the chain sits high and dry, but the mud can get sloshed off the chain when sailing.
Cheers Richard