Bavaria 30 Spinnaker (cruising chute)

[Krill]

Hi,

so i've got myself a cruisng chute, (yay) with snuffer, but there's no sheets with it, what size sheets should i be using and what approx length, i've read 1.5x boat length.. soo ~14m each is that excessive? and 8mm braided? or is that too small

also looking for a suitable tack block but other than "block" im a little lost for what the correct search term is :O ideally i need to connect it to a nut and bolt on the forstay where the furlex is connect to, unless i could connect it to the circled point in the photo below then i can use a standard split pin one? but might be too far back

[geoff]

I use a short strop attached to the anchor roller pivot ,then leading outside the wooden bow seat. In the case of my boat it keeps it clear of nav lights and stuff. Geoff

[Krill]

I use a short strop attached to the anchor roller pivot ,then leading outside the wooden bow seat. In the case of my boat it keeps it clear of nav lights and stuff. Geoff

i didnt think the bow roller could take the upward force so dismissed that as an idea,

things going through my head currently are;

- a DIY ATN tacker and lead the tack line via a block fitted to the forestay bracket back to a cleat so it can be easily adjusted
- Just a block on the forestay bracket, try flying the cruising chute in light winds to see if it catches on anything, i think if i led the tack line inside of the bow seat it would not foul anything, again back to a cleat
- DIY ATN tacker and stick the block on the stong hold like this:

[Ricd]

I have just purchased a chute and an ATN tacker and like you am adjusting boat to fly it. If you use a atn tacker the eye bold you have circled I would think would be ideal to take the tack line block.  I don't have that eye bolt and am considering if i need it. My initial plan is to fly from the bow roller which several have informed me is man enough for the job.  With the atn tacker the chute tack flys from the tacker itself which is set above the pulpit so no interference with nav lights or pulpit parts. The tack line can be lead to a block aft of the fore stay as shown in your diagram.

Regarding sheets I thought about 8mm but have gone for 10mm (22m/sheet).  I choose the 10m as it will be easier to handle and a better fit to the winch.  I know there is a little extra weight but really if there is not enough wind to cruise in light airwith 10mm sheet and a big chute then the engine needs to be on.  I also always plan to gybe the chute outside so lazy sheet needs to be extra long.

I am also planning to put two deck eyes aft to take the sheet lead blocks for the winch.  I thought about strops to the aft cleats but on the B34 these cleats are almost below the winches so the lean angle would be rubbish. 

[geoff]

My bow roller has been taking the upward strain for 15 years so I guess it is strong enough !! Geoff

[Ricd]

Even more reassurance Geoff

[Krill]

My bow roller has been taking the upward strain for 15 years so I guess it is strong enough !! Geoff

Good to know - some people say the keel will fall off if you so much as breath on the bolts i guess this advice about the bow roller not being strong enough comes from the same folk

I have just purchased a chute and an ATN tacker and like you am adjusting boat to fly it. If you use a atn tacker the eye bold you have circled I would think would be ideal to take the tack line block.  I don't have that eye bolt and am considering if i need it. My initial plan is to fly from the bow roller which several have informed me is man enough for the job.  With the atn tacker the chute tack flys from the tacker itself which is set above the pulpit so no interference with nav lights or pulpit parts. The tack line can be lead to a block aft of the fore stay as shown in your diagram.

Regarding sheets I thought about 8mm but have gone for 10mm (22m/sheet).  I choose the 10m as it will be easier to handle and a better fit to the winch.  I know there is a little extra weight but really if there is not enough wind to cruise in light airwith 10mm sheet and a big chute then the engine needs to be on.  I also always plan to gybe the chute outside so lazy sheet needs to be extra long.

I am also planning to put two deck eyes aft to take the sheet lead blocks for the winch.  I thought about strops to the aft cleats but on the B34 these cleats are almost below the winches so the lean angle would be rubbish.

thanks -  my aft cleats are quite far back from my winches so that's just gave me an idea! ATN tacker wise i was going to buy one but i've seen a DIY one made from an old fender which looks rather good, but the sole reason for wanting a ATN tacker is to move the tack away from the pulpit

[Ricd]

Yes have seen the fender development of the atn.   By the way there are some good video's online showing setting up and gybing the ATN (and I guess fender look alike),

good luck

[Krill]

thanks everyone, just ordered some bits from the chandlers - chute shall hopefully be up flying next time out wind permitting!

great as always this forum!

[dawntreader]

My bow roller has been taking the upward strain for 15 years so I guess it is strong enough !! Geoff

NB: Geoff has an Ocean 40 2001. I have a B37 2006. I can assure you from experience that the bow roller on mine is not man enough to take the upward strain

[Krill]

My bow roller has been taking the upward strain for 15 years so I guess it is strong enough !! Geoff

NB: Geoff has an Ocean 40 2001. I have a B37 2006. I can assure you from experience that the bow roller on mine is not man enough to take the upward strain

Thanks - i am going to use a ATN tacker and avoid using the bow roller in any case, my B30's roller don't look too significant for upward forces if im honest hence why i decided the ATN would be the best option

[dawntreader]

I successfully used the ATN method. I also fitted turning blocks to my forestay anchor point and kept the sail height in check by securing to the forward cleat. Once it is fitted and flying you don't need to adjust it and it is easy to remove

[Symphony]

To take the tack on my furling chute I modified the strut that runs from the forestay fitting up to the underside of the step. It is originally in two parts, a lower tube that is bolted through the forestay fitting and an upper tube welded to the cross bar under the step. The upper fits into the lower and is locked with a bolt so that you can remove the pulpit if needed.

My mod was to cut the upper strut from the cross bar (the most difficult bit!), unbolt the lower tube, have the two welded together at the right length and two ears welded to the top of the upper with holes to take a U bolt that passes through the wooden step and bolted up to the strut. So there is now a big U bolt sitting on top of the step which takes the load direct down to the forestay fitting which in turn runs down the bow.

This would be ideal for the tack block for a non furling cruising chute.

[Ricd]

As you can see, my bow roller is a bit more substantial than those in other attached photos. It’s a 2000 build B34. Had the chute supplier on boat yesterday and his view was it’s well man enough.

[Stockie]

Hi guys,
I’ve gone a stage further and built a fixed bow sprit set up.  I have used the strut bolted on to the fore-stay chain plate to brace it.  But I also intend adding a bob stay.  My only worry is how the bob stay is going to interact with the anchor and chain.  I do use a rope snubber through the fair lead so I am hopeful that will eliminate chaffing on the bob stay?
If it does foul it, I guess one alternative is to rig up the stay so it can be loosened off when anchoring.
Has anyone done a similar set up and found a workeable solution?
Hope I am not hijacking the thread?
Cheers Richard

[Krill]

resurrecting this as i've fitted the spinnaker and had it flying, (light winds) but trying to figure out where to put the turning blocks!

on the 30 cruiser the genoa winches are well aft... and bringing the line straight to the genoa winches works but the lines are a little high and put load on the self tailing section

can i drill the toe rail and fit turning blocks to that? (its solid with no holes currently) and then up to the winch?

other option is a cheek block or loop fitted to the cheek blocks the genoa sheets feed through this will bring the sheet into the winches nicely?

any help appreciated

thanks

[Symphony]

I have mine on strops attached to the mooring cleats, but that may be to close to the winch for you. Alternatively the U bolts for the backstays might be a good place.

[Krill]

the back stays are well below the stern on mine, & the aft cleats are too close unfortunately -  there is a strong point for the jackline safety line but the angle up to the winch is a little sharp, i could perhaps put strops through these.

on the reverse side they have a plate behind two m6 bolts the same as the back stays so are pretty substantial

[Salty]

On my B36(2002) there is provision for four sheet winches to be attached to the cockpit coaming. I’ve got two fitted, namely one each side while the places for fitting the aft set of winches remained unused until figuring how to lead my cruising chute sheets to the winches. I fitted “u” bolts through the coaming in those locations that had been provided for the aft set of winches where there was already a metal plate embedded into the lay up forming a very strong point. Each time I want to fly the chute, I have a set of turning blocks which get shackled to the “u” bolts, and which leads the sheets directly to the winches otherwise used for the genny.

[Krill]

On my B36(2002) there is provision for four sheet winches to be attached to the cockpit coaming. I’ve got two fitted, namely one each side while the places for fitting the aft set of winches remained unused until figuring how to lead my cruising chute sheets to the winches. I fitted “u” bolts through the coaming in those locations that had been provided for the aft set of winches where there was already a metal plate embedded into the lay up forming a very strong point. Each time I want to fly the chute, I have a set of turning blocks which get shackled to the “u” bolts, and which leads the sheets directly to the winches otherwise used for the genny.

problem is there isnt anything aft of the winches

this drawing hopefully helps



there is a d ring at the bottom of a stantion i could use but i dont know if they're strong enough, the boat is rigged with spinnaker halyard and also a pole lift, so a previous owner must have done it.

im the 3rd owner, and 2nd owner didnt have a spinnaker

[Ricd]

Hi Kenneth

My 2000 B34 like yours has main winches well aft so that helm can manage them.  Great for that purpose but made fitting lead blocks for chute more difficult.  I considered stropping them to pushpit  but was worried about ripping it out and like you the aft cleats are far to close to winch and angle would be really poor.  In end I fitter Wichard 8mm watertight U bolts as far aft as possible either side and attached lead blocks (Seldon 60's, plain bearing with becket) to these...work a treat,  It was a very easy job as could access underdeck both sides via cockpit lockers.  For belt and braces I used some 3mm 316 SS plate under deck to spread load over largest area possible...recon I could tie boat to dock now using these U bolts.

[Krill]

Hi Kenneth

My 2000 B34 like yours has main winches well aft so that helm can manage them.  Great for that purpose but made fitting lead blocks for chute more difficult.  I considered stropping them to pushpit  but was worried about ripping it out and like you the aft cleats are far to close to winch and angle would be really poor.  In end I fitter Wichard 8mm watertight U bolts as far aft as possible either side and attached lead blocks (Seldon 60's, plain bearing with becket) to these...work a treat,  It was a very easy job as could access underdeck both sides via cockpit lockers.  For belt and braces I used some 3mm 316 SS plate under deck to spread load over largest area possible...recon I could tie boat to dock now using these U bolts.

Thanks good idea, I’ll have a look behind the aft berth see what bits of the cockpit I can get access to, I don’t fancy taking half the boat to bits again like I did with solar panels just to access the underside

[Ricd]

If no cockpit lockers might be able to access aft side deck area via lazarette

[Salty]

.
.
other option is a cheek block or loop fitted to the cheek blocks the genoa sheets feed through this will bring the sheet into the winches nicely?
.
thanks

I think from the various discussions above and keeping in mind that your Genoa sheet winches are located so far aft that leads from aft of the winches would be impractical, that your suggestion of attaching a cheek block to the blocks on your side decks that your Genoa sheets lead through, is a good option. Possibly better if that block could be mounted so that it’s angle was one that followed the line of your cruising chute sheets from sail to deck and on to the winches.

[Krill]

.
.
other option is a cheek block or loop fitted to the cheek blocks the genoa sheets feed through this will bring the sheet into the winches nicely?
.
thanks

I think from the various discussions above and keeping in mind that your Genoa sheet winches are located so far aft that leads from aft of the winches would be impractical, that your suggestion of attaching a cheek block to the blocks on your side decks that your Genoa sheets lead through, is a good option. Possibly better if that block could be mounted so that it’s angle was one that followed the line of your cruising chute sheets from sail to deck and on to the winches.

i think you're right, I am tempted to fit deck eyes with a block attached, rather than cheek blocks, that way the angle is more forgiving