Cruising chute hardware and controls

[Iain C]

I'm about to fit a cruising chute to my 2004 B32 and I'm just after people's experiences and any feedback.  These are the main points:

Bowsprit

I'm making a carbon bowsprit out of a broken piece of 18' skiff mast.  It's 75mm OD so conveniently just the right size to fit through a Selden bow ring which I shall bolt down to the stemhead fitting on the port side.  It will have turned acetal end caps, with an alloy bullseye in each end and the tack line will run up the middle of it.  In the "in-use" position, the inboard end of the pole will sit in a teak recessed cradle which will be bolted to the deck, with the nuts accessible from the chain locker.  A simple rope jammer going from one side of the cradle to the other will keep the pole in place (obviously under load the inboard end is being pushed into the deck anyway) and a peg in the cradle and notch in the pole will stop any rotation.

Bowsprit storage

Some simple clips and a strap to attach it to the pulpit and stanchions on the port side.

Tack line

As the bowsprit has to be on the port side because of the anchor, I was going to run the tack line through stanchion base blocks back to the jammer on the port quarter which currently serves the genoa furling line. 

Genoa furling line

Basically replicate what is already there on the port side, and fit a new jammer on the stbd quarter (easy job with access from inside the cockpit locker)

Kite turning blocks

At a bit of a loss here...what do people do?  Drill holes on the toerails and fit snap shackles? Just lead the kite sheets to the aft genoa track cars?

Any advice/comments are very welcome!!

[Kibo]

All good.

On the furling line - I put mine on the same side as genoa furling and lead it higher up on the stanchions with removable small blocks.
Works OK but either side would work I'm sure

Turning sheet blocks.... I fitted folding padeyes (Wichard make)  on the aft deck each side  backed up with large plates underneath and bolted through. Use sheet blocks with snap shackles (or pin shackles would work) to fit to these so you can easily remove them when not in use. Positioning is for the best lead forward to where the kite clew will be when flying (avoiding stanchions etc) and also bear in mind which winch you will use (I have two winches either side, main and Genoa, not sure if you only have one?).

[Symphony]

I have used Harken double fairleads on the stanchions with a block on the pulpit for the jib furling line back to a Harken jamming ratchet block on the forward pushpit upright. This frees up the existing jammer and fairleads which could then be used for the chute tack line. As you know I have a furler so the furling line is on the starboard side using Selden fairleads back to a double jamming block on the pushpit.

For sheets I have blocks on short strops attached to the mooring cleats. The strops are 10mm 3 strand spliced to the blocks and a spliced eye that goes round the uprights of the cleats. I use similar blocks for the boom preventer. Using the cleats saves having to drill more holes in the deck and are easily removed. You can make them up to a length that gives you a good lead to the winch.

[Iain C]

Great advice...thanks guys.

Symphony...that's a very good point on the sheet turning blocks.  Now you say that I do remember exactly 10 years ago I did the RTIR on a mate's B32 (identical to mine) and that was exactly what he's done.  Very glad you reminded me before I started attacking the toe rail with a drill!!

[Salty]

Yes, brilliant idea Symphony.

[dawntreader]

I had a sail-maker put these together - the bungee/hook keeps it out of the way when not in use 
Note: the eye of the strop needs to be big enough to push the block through 

[Symphony]

Very neat. Same basic idea as mine which give plenty of practice for splicing!

[Kibo]

That’s a neat solution Dawntreader.

On my boat the cleats are too far aft v the winches so the pushpit stanchions are in the way of a good lead from that point.

 Just worth bearing in mind for anyone reading this thread with a different boat to the OP

[Mirror45184]

Same solution as Symphony, using loops of Dynema through shackles to attach to the aft mooring cleats. more splicing practice.

[Stockie]

Iain C
Hi I’m in a similar situation, I took the plunge and ordered a Assy, arrives in a week or so.
So out with the TIG and some stainless tube.  I am making a fixed bow-sprit, B37 is ackward to make something that works around the anchor.  I didn’t want something that interferes with ease of access to the anchor locker.
So I have made up a 38mm tube set up, it will attach to the hull sides under the gunnel rail near where the fair leads are, through bolted, access to nuts via anchor well.
An anchor point off the forestay mount using the mount for the pulpit should help to brace it for sail loads.  Also I am going to fit a bob stay, which I hope will make for a stout installation.  I am watching your thread to see what other resourceful members have done for rigging turning blocks etc. 
I like the system that’s utilises the rear cleats, neat!
I’ll try and post some  pictures of my progress.  I made a simulated bow set up to get the angles correct.  The swan necks have been modified after a test fit to give more clearance on the anchor since these photos.  The sprit will get me 800 mm clear of the forestry, I will fit an eye top and bottom at the end.
Cheers Richard