lost reefing line into boom

[aquapore]

Hi Guys,
My second reefing line has been lost into the boom. I was  not secure properly.

Any advice as to how two get it back.


Regards
Aquapore

[aquapore]

This is the second time I have had major trouble with the Selden reefing system on my Bav 41 (2003).

Has anyone abandoned the single line reefing for a simpler more reliable system.

Regards


Aquapore

[dawntreader]

Attached is a schematic of the boom - which line have you lost, K15 or K10? The only problem I have had with the single reefing system in the past 12 years and 22,000 sea miles is was when I pulled the 'wrong' sheet to take up slack when putting the sail back on one year. I will not do that twice  . The rear of the boom is held on with 4 screws and pulls off. Do it gently. You will then have to push or pull the car back and re-thread the sheet. Have fun - it's a real pain 

[Salty]

Attached is a schematic of the boom - which line have you lost, K15 or K10? The only problem I have had with the single reefing system in the past 12 years and 22,000 sea miles is was when I pulled the 'wrong' sheet to take up slack when putting the sail back on one year. I will not do that twice  . The rear of the boom is held on with 4 screws and pulls off. Do it gently. You will then have to push or pull the car back and re-thread the sheet. Have fun - it's a real pain 

Lost a reefing line once, and resolved never to let that happen again.
To retrieve the end I passed a thin line down inside the boom by attaching it to, and using one of the remaining lines within the boom as a pull though. Obviously you will have to determine which way the thin line will need to travel depending on which way your reefing line disappeared. If it has come off the car within the boom, then as Dawntreader has noted you will need to remove the end cap at the rear of the boom and take the car out in order to re-thread your reefing line around it. Take care as the car comes out of the boom as it has four small nylon wheels which allow the car to move easily within the boom. Those wheels are small, they are not secured in place, and if you are careless they will drop out, bounce and go "splish" whereupon certain four letter words spring to mind. I say "splish," as they are too small and light to go splash, but the end result is just as much a pain in the arris. About five years ago they cost me around £3.50 each plus postage, and I do mean each, not per set !! Good luck sorting the problem, and always remember to re-tie the knot in the end of your reefing lines every time and immediately after allowing the rope end to pass through your rope clutch.

[aquapore]

Thanks guys for your help.

I should add that the origin of the problem was that the rigger who re-rigged the reefing lines after replacement of the standing rig made a mistake by rigging the second reef line where the first rigging line should have gone and vise versa with the result that the second reef line was too short and hence the start of the problem.

Surprise surprise -  He does not want to know of the problem now!

Ok  -so I will have to disassemble the boom. But does it matter if the second reef is on the wrong side of center.

I note that the four torx bolts are exceptionally tight. I have spayed with WD40 and will leave for a few days.

Any further suggestions would be appreciated.

Regards


Aquapore

[Salty]

A friend of mine also lost the end of his reefing line down inside the boom, but unlike on my B36(2002) which has a boom end cap that is relatively easy to remove, on his boat, a Dufour 40 or 41 built in 98, the boom end cap is riveted on. Fortunately here in North Wales whilst there is a thriving sailing community, the riggers are not snowed under with work and pretty much need whatever they can get and so they keep their customers friendly. Having lost his reefing line, my friend went to the guy in the rigging workshop at the yard where our boats are laid up for the winter, for some advice. The rigging guy followed him back to his boat, retrieved the lost reefing line in less than ten minutes, and all for no charge at all. Result one very happy potential customer.
If your guy doesn't want to know, I can only guess he has too much work and doesn't need every customer he can get.

PS I don't think it matters too much if the reefing lines are on the wrong side of the boom, so long as you know which of the rope clutches deals with which reefing line and you mark them accordingly. It might baffle others who sail with you, but on your boat you can set the system up as you want it. However, with the end cap off, you could if you wanted put right the mess that your rigger left and remember not to use him again if you have the choice.

[Craig]

If you move any bolts or screws in rigging, make sure you put some Tel-Gel or similar on all the stainless steel fittings where they touch aluminium. This will stop galling and make sure you can undo them next time.
Craig
"Shirley Valentine"
Gold Coast
Australia

[Mirror45184]

Cross overs are never good they do cause chafe and subsequent loss of line integrity, it breaks while under load! For retrieving and inserting mouse lines or control lines I use a length of electrical conduit. Also pull all other control lines in the boom tight so the new line goes in the right place. There is less risk of twisting the lines together which can happen if you use an existing line in the boom to tow a mouse line through. If the lines are twisted around each other there is the chafe problem and additionally extra friction to work against. With the electrical conduit the job is a very quick one.

Cheers

[Salty]

Cross overs are never good they do cause chafe........etc. There is less risk of twisting the lines together..........etc. If the lines are twisted around each other there is the chafe problem and additionally extra friction to work against.

I quite agree, but a crossover was not what I had in mind. A complete change from one side to the other would mean the line set up was not crossed over. I like the idea of using electrical conduit, but you still need to be careful that it doesn't result in a crossover somewhere within the boom

[s/y Susanne]

I retrieved a lost line by taking off the end cap (screws very stiff at first) and the errant line was recovered with a fish-hook taped onto a sail-batten.  I was fortunate that I felt the reef fail as I was pulling it and immediately stopped reefing, consequently the  line was still through the sheave and not totally lost.

I do like the idea of a conduit for the mousing line, also a mouse-line will fly through a conduit if you suck it with a vacuum cleaner!

[Impavidus]

I assume that your reefing lines come from the cockpit to the base of the mast and then through a block to the front of the boom? They then travel to the car inside the boom. Reef lines then operate the car with the actual lines on? As per the attached photo?

Take the kicker off and lower the aft end of the boom down on the topping lift.
Remove the boom end which is secured with torx screws. (aft end)
If the car does not slide to the lower end of the boom get a length of plastic pipe and tape a coat hanger wire to it so you can fish the car out.
Take care not to pull the car from the boom as it runs on little nylon bearings that love to jump out and into the water!
Use the same pipe/hook to draw the reef line from the front to the back of the boom and attach the line to the car.
Re connect the main reef line to the car, the rear through the pulley up to the reef point on the sail. Then back to the boom through the eyelet on the luff of the sail.
Replace the end cap.
Lift the boom and replace the kicker.
JFD as they say in the trade :-)

Hope that helps

Ant.