Lifted from our website:
If you think getting the anchor up manually is hard work, then try fitting a new control box! Access is severely limited even when contorted at un-natural angles, with no room to get tools in.
The new control box is not only physically larger, but the three high current terminals as well as the low current ones are in different positions than on the old model. Andy thought that this would be a major stumbling block as there was virtually no slack in the existing wiring. As the power drill would not reach in, he also thought that it would be impossible to drill new mounting holes. Both these obstacles were overcome more easily than he expected. However, once fitted, the windlass still did not work! He had already tested both the old and the new control boxes by powering them off a separate 12v supply - the solenoids on the new one clicked away happily and the old ones did not, so although he had opened the old one and had seen no obvious wear or corrosion, it seemed that, as previous investigations suggested, this had been the culprit. So the next day (last Sunday), it was part-way back to the drawing board. Discovering there was +12v going out from the control box to the remote control but only +10v coming back when the up & down buttons were pressed, he realised that there must be a bad or broken cable/joint. The most likely place was near the windlass itself, so Andy struggled to remove the panel in the forecabin. This did indeed reveal a joint in the cable - a horrible mess mummified in insulation tape. Unwinding this exposed 'car part' butt connectors and it was clear that the +12v wire had a break in it where it had been bent sharply. We can only surmise that although the windlass was specified from new, it was wired not at the factory, but by the commissioning agent as it was an awful botch and not like any of the other wiring we know to have been done by Bavaria.
