Breakdown and failure survey - please contribute

[Konan the Bavarian]

B37Cr 2006
1(D) - dis-assembled hinges and found that the rubber seal was folded over prior to installation. Solution was to unfold & re assemble. Has never leaked since
2(j) - lower rudder bearing housing heavily corroded, Cause was copper based antifoul used around & on bearing housing
4(i) - minor debris in fuel line, before shutoff valve & filters - proposing to put another fuel filter immediately after outket form fuel tank
5(a) - have taken to antifouling inlet port on drive leg to minimise fouling
8(L) - no forward propulsion, when engaging forward gears - prop fell off - cause was incorrect installation by marine mechanic, when serviced
8(L) - Anodes on sail drive missing - cause was bolts not tighen sufficiently by marine mechanic, when serviced
9(s) - disconnected wires from sender unit, as temporary "solution"
9(T) - cause was filter not cleaned regulary
10(o) - lock dis-assembled, and reassembled with some minor internal modifications

[Odysseus]

Odysseus
Bav 38

The only issue I have  had is the blue strip on the coatchroof fading.

 That's all.

[Jeff Jones]

Bavaria 34 2000/1 2cabin

1 C, H, L   

On this model,
The stanchions do not 'clip' into the toe rail, and were loose on purchasing boat 3 years ago.
Fixed by modifying stanchion bases (tig weld block to slight hook under toe rail)

Also Removed toe rail, OEM FOAM SEAL - crap (technical term) foam was a sponge and full of water.
Toe rail self tapping screws come loose and leak, letting rain water into a hardwood timber glassed into to of hull... this tracks the water to the lowest point in the hull / toe rail and leaks a distance from where the actual ingress is.
So after removing foam seal and replaces with butyl tape to seal the toe rail, this year I am replacing all 288 screws with countersunk bolts and nyloc bolts.

these seems to be a STANDARD PROBLEM, as where I have been sealing these leaks the previous owner has left his mark with silicon sealant :-(

Transom, removed and re-sealed all fittings inc back stays. was getting slight weep running into and around saildrive.

Cockpit floor, safety anchor's at companion way repeatable leak after 3months with heat expansion from running engine below...am going to remove.

I also, have either condensation or rain water ingress in the coach roof, which accumulated in the light fitting over the chart table over time.
I dry it with a tissue, and have no overflow for a couple of months in the winter. then it drips again.


Impavidus, Good question... thanks for your efforts..

As a engineer, I would say, that because of the 'production line' style of Bavaria yacht manufacturer and the other similar mass production boats - I am now not surprised I have these small on-going problems which in my case are all symptom's of these quick assembly methods.

A more traditional boat would be 'Nut ant Bolted' and not use self tapper screws but of course that type of assembly takes a lot of additional time - and therefore would cost more to produce...

My boat is of decent quality but I seem to spend more time on niggly little things that really shouldn't keep re-occurring, so I am beefing things up and improving on Bavaria's methods of doing things.

[Impavidus]

Hi Ant,

Did you complete the article you were doing for BOA at the start of this thread, cos you mentioned about publishing it on this forum too?

Salty. No not yet. We have been really busy, but come April I am hoping to retire and sail away. I be filming and writing as we go. I put together all the stats and see what comes out of it

Ant

[Salty]

Thanks Ant, but don't bank on having some spare time just 'cos you're about to retire !!
All that happens after retirement is that your body slows down while your mind finds more and more to keep you occupied, well that and everyone else who think you have nothing to do just because you are "retired" and so can you please help them out with some little project of theirs that needs finishing!!

[Impavidus]

  @ Salty

[mikeiso1192]

Oh No!
I thought that I might get some time for myself.
6 1/2 weeks to retirement and counting.
Mike

[stone687]

Useful survey - thanks.
B32 (2002)
1l both brass nuts on caloriforer split
9i
9 u  steaming lights and deck light failed together

No other problems in 4 years that were not down to my actions

[Sadlerfin]

Bavaria 30 cruiser 2006

(2) E Seal failed after 200 hours replaced
(2) F  Took weeks to find the water leak that appeared near the keel bolts replaced box with a plastic one water found its way from the rear of the engine bay to the keel bolts.

(9) i Fridge needed re gassing
(9) S replaced thermostat.

Hop this helps

[landes_h]

This is a great attempt to summarize problems and solutions. There might be more points added to the list while replies coming in.
My boat is a Bavaria 38/2003 being 10 years in charter and then purchased in 2013. Many things changed and/or added, but the basis is a very good boat, failure rate is rather low. Here my list:

 (1) Water ingress (fresh)
c.   Leaking stanchion(s), practically all of them where lose.
h.   Leaking toe rail, in combination with (1) c.
i.   Leaking  fresh water pump (domestic)
j.   Leaking hot water pipes, literally exploded due to overheat - thermostat set wrong

(2) Water ingress (salt)
j.   Rudder stock or bearing, not leaking but replaced, because rudder was going hard. Lower bearing bed coroded.

(4) Engine running poorly
x.   Water in motor bilge, because of leaking raw water pump

(9) Batteries and Electrical
e.   Alternator fails (not charging), rectifier board defect

(10) Doors and Handles
h.   Cupboard door sprung hinge fails, one hinge replaced

That's all

[Escapade]

Bavaria 35 Exclusive - 1997

1d rubber foam gasket leaking
1o binnacle instruments panel leaks because of foam gasket.
2i replaced 2018 with a plastic one by Vetus
9i replaced ventilated cooling plate with static one (no fan)
9q fore tank
9u digital hour meter failed, replaced with standard mechanical one.

[aquapore]

Four important beefs (2003 Bavaria 41)

Cabin light swiches continually fail
No conduits for important lines - simply laid behind panels where cannot be accessed.
Poor quality electrical connection with failures caused by corrosion of plated surfaces.
Deck leaks under stantion bases.

Regards

Aquapore

[CRYSTAL]

Greetings all.

this is for Bavaria 33C - 2006 model (launched on 12/2006) and delivered to Cyprus.
Engine is D1-30 and so far 890hrs
Saildrive is SD130
InMast Furling

Blue Line fading and it's making the boat look really old!!

(1) Water ingress (fresh)
a.   Leaking port-light - fixed with a smear of vaseline and good idea to do this twice a year.
 
f.   Leaking chain plates - seems to be a general Bavaria Issue - small leak and fixed with silicon
j.   Leaking hot water pipes  - yes but stupid installation by local engineer. nothing to do with original install.

(2) Water ingress (salt)

e.   Raw water pump (seals) - yes normal wear and tear, the seals were replaced. good idea to replace bearings as well

i.   Exhaust leaking (Volvo type exhaust) - yes, as per normal wear and tear and engine overheated (see my post) as the elbow was starting to clog. This must be changed at some point.

j.   Rudder stock or bearing - no issues, but seals needed to be replaced (nothing serious but good to bring it down and inspect and clean the bearing area (Teflon).


(3) Engine not starting
a.   Battery flat (or battery problem) - Installed Sterling Alt-Bat charger and this keeps my batteries in top condition.

(4) Engine running poorly

Engine is vibrating somewhat more this year. Boat was launched 4th of April (last week). Either I forgot how noisy and un-smooth the D1-30 is or something not going right. No smoke coming out so all looks normal. I will dive soon to see if I picked up a drifting bag / rope.

(5) Over heating

d.   Blocked heat exchanger - Yes, see my post.

e.   Blocked injection elbow (water inlet not exhaust) - yes, as per above. not totally blocked but enough to cause overheating with combination of Heat Exch partially blocked.

(8) Sail Drive

g.   Seal failure (water in oil) - no issues but replaced after 8 yrs as a precaution
l.   Other (Please specify) - no issues on mine but I saw a Bav50 Vision with D2-75 not being able to put in reverse while coming to birth couple of years ago.

(9) Batteries and Electrical

l.   Fridge thermostat (fail) - first thin someone needs to do: replace the damn thermostat with an electrical one and install a secondary cooling fan infront of the compressor.


(10) Doors and Handles / locks - cheap material but you get what you pay for.

Other Items that i included below:

-Selden Rodkick Gas shock replaced
-2 Volvo aluminium props changed
-all Hull fittings changed to Bronze in 2015/16 (main seacock failed and broke off at the thruhull while on hard trying to change the fittings.)
-Keel done with Adherpox / Aquastop numerous layers and going strong after 4 years, no signs of rust (lift out every 18months).


Generally very happy with the boat and engine. Nothing serious after 11 yrs of which 8 has been under my care.



ATB,
and hope the above helps.

[Kaptajnen]

Bavaria 38 Ocean CC 2000

(1) a c,d
(2) d,e
(3) e,c,h
(4) nothing👍
5) f,g
(6) nothing
(7) nothing
(8) i,  Saildrive “melted” due to electrolysis caused be short circuit in alternator😡
(9) c e,h,q,t
(10) a

[Salty]

Many thanks to everyone who has contributed so far. Yngmar, ditto to most of yours on my old boat. Tiger, Ditto on my new boat. Craig Ditto both my Bavaria's.  Bob yes. All known issues that come up. But still a lovely capable boat in 45 knots of wind? Shirley, Humm this keeps coming up. Scorcher IV, again same old same old. Symphony, thanks for that good input. Every one else, I thank you for your input, its bringing up just the data we need as a forum and Bavaria owners.

Guests and others. Dont just read this! Please contribute. There is a lot of data and info in this forum from every level of ownership, ability and experience.

Best regards.

Ant 

Hi Ant,
Another point for (1)o, or for a separate heading is in regard to portlight and hatch acrylics crazing.
All my portlights and hatch acrylics on my B36(2002), are crazing like mad. However, I’ve noticed that where the original owner placed self adhesive non slip tapes across the hatch acrylics on the cabin top, that the areas covered by those tapes have not crazed at all. Another of the hatches had also been covered with some kind of transparent plastic film, and that hatch had also not crazed. The plastic film it had been covered with has over time broken down and looked a mess, but I was able to remove the remnants of the film without damaging the hatch acrylic.
I’ve since been working on a solution to the crazing of the acrylics, and also in regard to replacing of already crazed acrylics in a way that is neither so painful in the pocket, or as difficult as using those replacements that the original manufacturer has offered, but which has required a certain amount of DIY work. More about that though in another thread when I’ve put all of my experiences in this matter together and I’m ready to explain.

Follow up in Modifications and Equipment under Crazed Portlights and Hatches.

[MarkTheBike]

Salty - good luck with the repairs and please write it up for us. I'll certainly be waiting as all mine look like crashed windscreens. I did actually consider buying a sheet of the stuff and cutting out/replacing them but finding the sheets locally isn't easy. Anyone else tried this?

[Symphony]

Salty - good luck with the repairs and please write it up for us. I'll certainly be waiting as all mine look like crashed windscreens. I did actually consider buying a sheet of the stuff and cutting out/replacing them but finding the sheets locally isn't easy. Anyone else tried this?

Acrylic or polycarbonate is widely available. Best local sources are signmakers which you find in most sizable towns. Also plenty of on line suppliers. wide variations in prices and quality but most will cut to size and some will cut and finish to template.

However, the crazing is only cosmetic and has no impact on strength or durability. Just the nature of the product when exposed to UV and obviously horizontal surfaces are affected more than vertical.

[MarkTheBike]

However, the crazing is only cosmetic and has no impact on strength or durability. Just the nature of the product when exposed to UV and obviously horizontal surfaces are affected more than vertical.

Hi Symphony
That's interesting about the strength. I've had Figaro for 5-6yrs and when I bought her, the hatches were crazed enough to notice but also strong enough to stand on (which I did when flaking the main). Five years on, the crazing is like a 'shattered windscreen' and definitely flexes even if I put a foot on it. You may be right in that it won't break but it sure feels less robust than it did. I'm going to make some hatch covers once I've fitted new acrylics.

[Salty]

Salty - good luck with the repairs and please write it up for us. I'll certainly be waiting as all mine look like crashed windscreens. I did actually consider buying a sheet of the stuff and cutting out/replacing them but finding the sheets locally isn't easy. Anyone else tried this?

The answer to your question Mark is yes, though I asked a plastics firm to do the machining for me, and the write up is now in Modifications and Equipment under Crazed Portlights and Hatches.

[SV Chill]

Hi
Bav 44 2004
(1) a.   Leaking port-light yes
c.   Leaking stanchion(s) All. Two weeks on hardstand to remove entire teak toerail capping and rubbing strake to allow access to stanchion mounts and hull/deck seal and fasteners.  Hull/ deck joint screwed together and most self tapping fasteners were leaking. Very poor workmanship on one side, the other was very good.
d.   Leaking hatch yes, lewmar 500mm. Seal. Fixed with Vaseline/ petroleum jelly.
g.   Leaking cable gland yes. Mast cable through deck
h.   Leaking toe rail yes. See 1c
n.   Sink. Yes, drain outlets. Rubber seal fails

(2) Water ingress (salt
h.   Keel bolts yes. But I did hit a rock first. Poor repair in a yard. Done properly later.

(3) Engine not starting
a.   Battery flat (or battery problem) yes

(4) Engine running poorly.  VP D2-55 no issue

(5) Over heating
a.   Blocked drive leg or water inlet yes. Lack of use and blocked sail Leg. Bypassed with new through hull.

i.   Air locks to fresh water cooling. Yes. Cracked hose.  And current unidentified issue. 

(6) Gearbox problems.   none

(7) Shaft drive n/a

(8) Sail Drive
g)yes, water in oil.  seal failed at prop

(9) Batteries and Electrical
e.   Alternator fails (not charging). Failed. 55A version. Replaced.

g.   Batteries not holding charge (go flat in short time on low loads). Yes.  New batteries

i.   Fridge not cooling. Bloody Bavaria. Fridge constantly running. Drawing 6~8Ah. Eventually Replaced with BD50 and custom Chill plate. Still no good. Added insulation and much better.
Also, corrosion at rear of switchboard  -connectors.

l.   Fridge thermostat (fail). Maybe, but replaced due to high current draw. See 9i
m.   Water Pump (cycles) when not in use. Occasionally. Haven't found the leak yet but suspect water accumulator tank/fitting.
p.   Interior lights fail (other than bulb). Yes, switches failed.
q.   Water tank level fails or shows empty when full. Yes. Senders gradually failed and a friend broke the gauge 'helping'.

Other) hot water thermostat failed.

(10) Doors and Handles
e.   Cupboard door will not open (push catch). Yes. Replaced catch. Greased others

Other
Anchor chain (10mm) jams entering chain locker. Not enough fall to clear chain away from gypsy.
Anchor winch mounted too low, so chain jumps off gypsy.
Access to cable channel behind starboard lockers is very poor. Very small plywood access covers make stanchion fasteners and calbles very, very difficult to access.

[Impavidus]

Folks. Just for your info I am watching this thread and do intend to do a summary with some numbers at the end of Sept- beginning Oct when we have more time and better internet.

Best regards Ant & Cid

[captpatrick211]

Thanks for taking this on! 

Bavaria Vision 2007 (40foot)
(1) Water ingress (fresh)
a.   Leaking port-light
b.   Leaking window (fixed)
i.   Leaking  fresh water pump (domestic)
j.   Leaking hot water pipes


(3) Engine not starting
a.   Battery flat (or battery problem)


(9) Batteries and Electrical
a.   Mains breaker fails or keeps shutting off
j.   Fridge over cooling (constantly ices up)
r.   Holding tank level shows empty when full

[WAArete]

Leaking port glass; applied grease lubricant and it seemed to clear up issue
Head pump failure; replaced part
Fire extinguishers; added traditional extinguishers
Shutoff for propane ; haven't addressed
2003 -36'
Sorry for not following your outline.
Thanks for your survey...

[Susan Margaret]

Hi, good idea and well done for starting it up.
I have a Bavaria 42 Cruiser 2005.
Hope this helps.
1. a,j,k,l.
2. h,j.
3. No problems
4. i. - algae growth in diesel tank blocking the tap.
5. d,g.
6. No problems
7. Not applicable.
8. g.
9. e,g,i,m,s.
10. No problems.

[Salty]

Further to my earlier replies, I’ve just had the following problem
9(a) mains breaker failure, see photo below showing burn through side of the breaker housing.

Note. When the breaker failed, it failed “safe,” shutting the electricity off. Checking the breaker by lifting the switch on the front allowed the electricity to flow, but only briefly until I let go the switch which then tripped immediately to the safe position.

Fortunately, and much to my surprise, after taking a note of the description on the front of the breaker (see second photo), I was able to find the identical item (except for the burn hole !) on eBay within a matter of minutes and priced there at £39.95. Fitting it this weekend hopefully.

For a vessel built in 2002 and initially used for ten years as a charter boat, I think that the longevity of the RCD was not bad at all.