Author Topic: D1-30 Seal  (Read 3660 times)

Sootydog

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D1-30 Seal
« on: May 25 2017, 19:42 »
I have a small leak that I think I have traced to the seal behind the seawater impeller.  If you look down on the pump casing I think I can see this seal.  Am I correct?  Can I lever it out without removing the pump casing? And any idea the part number I need for a replacement. I'm currently in the Gulf of Corinth if anyone knows where I can buy one.
    Thanks.



dawntreader

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Re: D1-30 Seal
« Reply #1 on: May 25 2017, 19:57 »
I have replaced one and didn't take it all apart. The part is a Sealing Ring 833996 (see attached). I got mine from Volvo in the UK (Plymouth).

Sootydog

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Re: D1-30 Seal
« Reply #2 on: May 25 2017, 20:14 »
Thanks. Will try in Patras. The only other VP dealer I know of is in Lefkada.  Would this be one of those "could get it cheaper" parts?

dawntreader

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Re: D1-30 Seal
« Reply #3 on: May 25 2017, 20:31 »
Cost in Volvo Parts is about 12 Euro - so don't think you need to worry on that  ;)

Lazy Pelican

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Re: D1-30 Seal
« Reply #4 on: May 26 2017, 12:45 »
If you do need to remove the WP it's not difficult but you will need a puller to remove the drive gear which fits on a taper- something the manual doesn't mention!

Moodymike

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Re: D1-30 Seal
« Reply #5 on: May 26 2017, 14:59 »
I hope it is easier than the 2020 . One of the bolts very difficult to remove. Fortunately most of the time it is the outer seal.

dawntreader

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Re: D1-30 Seal
« Reply #6 on: May 26 2017, 17:00 »
I had no difficulty removing this seal. It is behind the impeller and can be gently prised out. Engine model D1-30B 2006.

Impavidus

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Re: D1-30 Seal
« Reply #7 on: June 28 2017, 19:09 »
Just a word of caution for you info.
This is one time I would recommend using the Volvo genuine part. There is a small stainless steel spring inside the seal that retains the inner seal face pressure on the shaft. It is not visible unless you dig round in the seal. Its tucked under the lip. The genuine part should have the spring made of SS, it still corrodes away due to crevice corrosion eventually (if the engine is not run regularly)but, I have seen non genuine automotive parts used where the spring is steel and can rot out in a few weeks.
It then rattles around behind the impeller doing more damage and can even end up in the heat exchanger along with the bits of broken impeller from over the years  :P :P 

We actually have a spare pump for or D1-30 it was a "gift" shall we say  :o :o

Its ready to swap out every time we do an impeller change or the seals fail... As they do. I can change the whole pump quicker that I can any of the components.

When you replace the seal use glycerin as a lubricant as you would replacing the impeller this will help the seal slide over the shaft as its fitted and prevent damage. When the water goes through the it will wash away.

Hope this is of use.

Ant.
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Sootydog

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Re: D1-30 Seal
« Reply #8 on: June 29 2017, 20:04 »
Thanks for all the helpful advice.  I have changed the seal ( genuine part) with the aid of a bent bit of metal to push the seal from the rear.  A dead easy fix and dry engine bilge. The inner spring turned to dust as I removed it but replacing the seal was simple with lube applied.