D1-30 Flushing the heat exchanger with Rydlyme

[willfinch36]

As my engine is now 10 years old I am thinking it would be worthwhile to flush the heat exchanger to help with general cooling.

Has anyone done this before, if so, any pointers?

I'm guessing you would have to use some form of pump (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Pump-DC-12V-Transfer-Submersible-Pump-Fluid-Water-Liquid-Oil-Refueling-/281246179736?hash=item417b942198:g:6DMAAOxy4dNS1vNx ?)

Thoughts on the best points to connect the input/output hoses? I am guessing after the impellor!

Thanks,

Will

[Yngmar]

I can't think of a reason why you'd do it that way. Just pull the tube stack out of the heat exchanger. You'll then see a) if it even needs cleaning and b) can clean it outside the heat exchanger, thus avoiding damage to your alloy parts. You also won't need what sounds like a very expensive "marine" product and can just soak the tube sack in a PVC pipe full of vinegar until clean.

[tiger79]

I can't think of a reason why you'd do it that way. Just pull the tube stack out of the heat exchanger. You'll then see a) if it even needs cleaning and b) can clean it outside the heat exchanger, thus avoiding damage to your alloy parts. You also won't need what sounds like a very expensive "marine" product and can just soak the tube sack in a PVC pipe full of vinegar until clean.

Totally agree!  Tube stacks need to be treated tenderly.  On my old 2003T engine, the heat exchanger had to be removed as part of another repair, and the VP dealer said it would be wise to send the tube stack off to a radiator specialist for cleaning ("pickling" was their term!). Guess what? When it came back there was a pinhole leak, which we fixed with epoxy fortunately.  Using anything as vicious as Rydlyme isn't a good idea, but is often suggested on forums inhabited by people who don't actually know much about boats.

[dawntreader]

As my engine is now 10 years old I am thinking it would be worthwhile to flush the heat exchanger to help with general cooling.

Has anyone done this before, if so, any pointers?

I'm guessing you would have to use some form of pump (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Pump-DC-12V-Transfer-Submersible-Pump-Fluid-Water-Liquid-Oil-Refueling-/281246179736?hash=item417b942198:g:6DMAAOxy4dNS1vNx ?)

Thoughts on the best points to connect the input/output hoses? I am guessing after the impellor!

Thanks,

Will

Have a look at this post from Salty: http://www.bavariayacht.info/forum/index.php/topic,1656.msg9714.html#msg9714

[Salty]

I can't think of a reason why you'd do it that way. Just pull the tube stack out of the heat exchanger. You'll then see a) if it even needs cleaning and b) can clean it outside the heat exchanger, thus avoiding damage to your alloy parts. You also won't need what sounds like a very expensive "marine" product and can just soak the tube sack in a PVC pipe full of vinegar until clean.

Totally agree with Yngmar and T79, the heat exchanger is easy to take apart, the tube stack slides out easily and any crud found within is very easily washed out under a running tap with very little help from a soft paint brush for the outside of the tubes and with a gentle blow through with compressed air for the inside of the tubes. Job done and ready to put it back together !!

[willfinch36]

Thanks for the replies - the only reason I didn't want to remove it completely was because one of the bolt heads holding it in is half sheared off. I guess I'll have to address this and replace it.

I read that it is also necessary to replace the 4 x O rings @ £12.35 EACH!!!!

[tiger79]

I read that it is also necessary to replace the 4 x O rings @ £12.35 EACH!!!!

Just measure them and buy matching replacements for pennies.

[willfinch36]

The link below has been mentioned before on the forum.

Could anyone advise which type I require?

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Products-O-Ring-Seals/c4747_4515/index.html

[dawntreader]

The link below has been mentioned before on the forum.

Could anyone advise which type I require?

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Products-O-Ring-Seals/c4747_4515/index.html

See this post. I used these for my D1-30b

http://www.bavariayacht.info/forum/index.php/topic,619.msg3858.html#msg3858

[willfinch36]

The link below has been mentioned before on the forum.

Could anyone advise which type I require?

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Products-O-Ring-Seals/c4747_4515/index.html

See this post. I used these for my D1-30b

http://www.bavariayacht.info/forum/index.php/topic,619.msg3858.html#msg3858

Thanks DT. Missed that post!

[solar]

Hi.
D1-30b
Taking the H/E off was relatively easy, cleaned,lubed etc.
BUT no matter how I turn the tube it won't go back in place!
What am I missing here?
Do I need to open the back side too to make it go back in place?
BTW I found only 2 o rings (front and middle)when out?
Many thanks.

[dawntreader]

The maintenance manual says to take both off - perhaps Salty can confirm? There are two rings on the back as well (see attached).

[MarkTheBike]

In advance of Salty's input, I did this last year and you do have to take both ends off to ensure it's seating correctly. Our O-rings were like new so were reused. I'll replace them next time.

[solar]

Many thanks.
Just took off the back side too...fingers crossed!

[solar]

Problem solved.
VP could make service much more friendly for users.
Thanks again.

[Salty]

I took mine apart two years ago, probably the first time ever since the boat was new in 2002. I didn't have an engine manual then, so it was a case of take a look and if it looks ok then leave well alone. Apart from removing the crud, mussel shells and pieces of impeller vanes that had dropped off from the time before I owned the boat, it all got put back together without anything being renewed. Both ends of the heat exchanger were taken off, and I made a note that whilst there was some corrosion within the exhaust elbow, that it was not too bad in my opinion, though I'm not an engineer. I've looked for a stainless exhaust elbow, seen some advertised with KeyPart, and I'm looking to change that elbow in the spring when the engine overhaul is due. As for "O" rings, they seemed to fit well enough so they were not changed. Maybe I'll change them in the spring now that it's been mentioned, but I'll take a look first at the engine manual that I have now, to see if there is anything else it recommends before I get too carried away.