Furlex Servicing and Forestay Tension

[Nigel]

... With the jib off -
1. ensure the reefing gear is lubricated and running smoothly, top and bottom.
2. make sure the roller foil is straight (i.e. the forestay is tensioned correctly)...

I have never been happy with the lubrication of my Furlex 300S, ideally I'd like to split the bearings and clean them. Has anyone got a service manual?

My forestay tension is far too slack, tightening the backstay doesn't help. Shrouds checked by rigger. Not sure where to start. Inner forestay too tight?

[tiger79]

I have never been happy with the lubrication of my Furlex 300S, ideally I'd like to split the bearings and clean them. Has anyone got a service manual?

The service manual is here on the Selden website - www.seldenmast.com/files/1426855959/595-104-E.pdf

[geoff]

Nigel, forestay tension is a function of shroud tension, if your leeward shroud becomes slack when close hauled in a full sail breeze [15 or 20 apparent] your shroud tension is too low. The problem seems to be the reluctance of riggers to use a tension gauge, relying on the feel of it. A good start is 20% break load with 25% as a max. The best way to measure the tension if you can be phaffed is measure the extension of a 2mtr length ,there are many books and online guides available. Geoff

[Yngmar]

My forestay tension is far too slack, tightening the backstay doesn't help. Shrouds checked by rigger. Not sure where to start. Inner forestay too tight?

Strongly suggest reading the Selden bible (every sailor should, it's really helped my understanding of standing rigging): HINTS AND ADVICE on rigging and tuning of your Seldén mast.

To give you advice, we need to know more about your rig - from your website, it looks like the standard Bavaria 7/8 fractional rig. You say you have an inner forestay, which is not standard although a removable was available as option. That can always be safely slackened and then you can play with cap shroud and backstay tension and see if it gets your forestay less floppy. There is an optional integral turnbuckle available for the 300S, which is hidden inside the drum if installed. This is rarely adjusted though and only used to tweak mast rake.

On your photo I only see a babystay, which would not cause this, unless it was seriously shortened and then it would give the mast top an extreme aft bend that you'd surely have noticed.

Did the rigger know that these rigs are high tension rigs and the cap shrouds (on the fractional with swept spreaders configuration) must be tensioned to 20% of their breaking load (25% with the backstay slackened off). In my experience several riggers were not aware of this and simply "tightened it up a bit" like a traditional rig... to be tensioned appropriately later, under sail. If you find one with a tension gauge, write down the numbers and compare them to the recommended tension in the Selden bible. Most likely there'll be not nearly enough tension on it - winding it up to the recommended 20% (with backstay tensioned and thus relieving the cap shrouds) on my 10mm wires took serious grunt and well oiled turnbuckles.

If you want to do it all properly, read the manual, then loosen the entire rig (equal number of turns both sides to keep mast centered) and then do it all up to recommended values using the wire stretch method. If your rig has ever been replaced or fiddled with, it is most likely set up wrong. Keep in mind there is no such thing as a certified yacht rigger

[Nigel]

The service manual is here on the Selden website - www.seldenmast.com/files/1426855959/595-104-E.pdf

Sadly not. "The manual is divided into two sections, one dealing with ASSEMBLY and one with OPERATION"

There seems to be very little information about servicing a Furlex, I can't even get mine apart.

Yngmar, perhaps I mean babystay, I thought inner forestay was the same. I've bought a tension gauge, haven't got round to using it yet. I figure I'll check when I've done the Furlex.

[tiger79]

Sadly not. "The manual is divided into two sections, one dealing with ASSEMBLY and one with OPERATION"

There seems to be very little information about servicing a Furlex, I can't even get mine apart.

The link I gave includes a section on routine servicing.  However, if you want to strip the whole thing down, look at the spare parts manual - www.seldenmast.com/files/1426855959/595-105-E.pdf - which has exploded drawings.

[Yngmar]

As for the Furlex bearings:

I've done the quick & dirty service on my Furlex 300S when I had the mast down to re-rig. I've never done anything with the stanchion leads other than check they're all turning. I have no problems furling by hand and usually do it with my left hand (because the right keeps light tension on the Genoa sheet).

If your forestay is very slack as you describe, this could increase friction in the foil and make it harder to furl the sail. Also your boat is a fair bit bigger than mine, therefore your forestay longer and your sail heavier - those contribute as well. On a friends Oyster 55 it is not possible to furl the massive Genoa by hand, it has to go on a winch (always did).

The quick & dirty service consisted of exposing the bearing, which is an open ball race, spraying it down with lots of Jizer spray (water rinseable degreaser - best I've found) while turning, then flushing it out with a standard hose with my thumb on it to get a bit of water jet. Did that until the balls looked clean, then pressed in new grease while turning until it looked and felt all nice and lubricated. Repeat the same for the top swivel.

If after lubricating the bearings and checking rig tension it still turns badly, the plastic bearings that ride on the forestay inside the foil may be worn.