SEACOCK REPLACEMENT

[CRYSTAL]

Common and a hot topic! Seacocks!!!!

Also keen to find out if anyone has changed their saildrive seacock. Valve gets very stiff very early (5yrs).

[MarkTheBike]

Hi

Figaro (B34 / 2001) is 13 y/o but seacocks appear to be in OK condition except for the raw water inlet. This was changed in January when I had the diaphragm replaced.

ATB

Mark

[Kibo]

Something to look out for with regard to seacocks....

I had to replace both my head holding tank outlet seacocks after only 2 years this summer. Seems Bavaria selected seacocks which are mixed metal; I think a stainless ball valve inside a brass casing, which resulted in corrosion of the ball valve and it stuck open. The stem sheared off and for a while I did not notice since I thought I had the seacock shut to avoid sending black water out of the holding tanks. I was then baffled that the holding tanks did not seem to be filling up very quickly !! 

The valve handle would still move through 90 degrees but obviously inside the seacock the ball valve was not moving so they were stuck open.

My apologies to all those in the anchorages I visited last Winter and Spring !!

.........I have now had them replaced with all bronze types.

[Yngmar]

Yes, all of them and their through-hulls and tailpipes, 15 years old. Surveyor found one seized closed, one was stuck half-open with the handle turning (so it appeared to be closed until removed) and the worst through-hull was about 50% pink. All passed hammer test. I've replaced them with Tru-Design glass reinforced nylon ones with the optional load bearing collars, mounted on spacers cut from HDPE.

I've lightly sanded and coppercoated the through-hulls all the way up to the ball and exercise them monthly. Very happy so far, glad I've done it (the insurance wanted it anyways), and they will never corrode and are immune to pouring acid or drain unblocker down the toilet if required.

The saildrive one I've replaced with a normal DZR one matching the original (except not of plated brass).

[Lyra]

Replaced heads inlet/outlet throughulls and seackocks to bronze as described here: http://www.sylyra.com/seacocks_e.php

[Salty]

Replaced the four fittings in the heads with Tru-Design valves and skin fittings. Bit of a tight fit on a B36(2002) resulting in having to fit the hose tails to the valves before fitting the valves to the skin fittings which were fitted last because of lack of space to turn the valves and with the skin fittings being screwed up from the outside before final tightening of the inner nut. Yes, I know that sounds a bit cockeyed, but there simply wasn’t enough space to do it the logical way. The old sea valves and skin fittings were starting to turn pink, but it was corrosion of the mild steel handles fitted to the old valves combined with their approaching sixteen years of age, and this thread, that prompted the change. Job was carried out during the over winter period ashore 2017/18. In general I’d say that the old valves and skin fittings would likely have lasted another two or three years. Next winter I’ll change the galley outlets with the same make of fittings which are already held in readiness for that job.
Because of the difficulties of the installation on a 36 with forward heads and three sleeping cabins, it could be worthwhile looking for fittings with less bulk than the Tru-Design fittings.

[Borealis]

Bavaria 41 exclusive 1998 all the orginal was working but the seacocks was not so good and one was sezied. The thru hull fittings was fine, but change everyting with True-design.
Have two left from the galley, but they will be changed next year.

[kavok]

Yes, all of them and their through-hulls and tailpipes, 15 years old. Surveyor found one seized closed, one was stuck half-open with the handle turning (so it appeared to be closed until removed) and the worst through-hull was about 50% pink. All passed hammer test. I've replaced them with Tru-Design glass reinforced nylon ones with the optional load bearing collars, mounted on spacers cut from HDPE.

I've lightly sanded and coppercoated the through-hulls all the way up to the ball and exercise them monthly. Very happy so far, glad I've done it (the insurance wanted it anyways), and they will never corrode and are immune to pouring acid or drain unblocker down the toilet if required.

The saildrive one I've replaced with a normal DZR one matching the original (except not of plated brass).

Pls can you tell me the thickness you found in the trough hull holes?
Why did you choose hdpe backing plates ?
Tank you for your replay

[Yngmar]

Pls can you tell me the thickness you found in the trough hull holes?
Why did you choose hdpe backing plates ?

The hull was about 6mm solid laminate there on our 2001 boat, thus the need for spacers as per the installation instructions.

HDPE was available, affordable, easy to cut and doesn't rot. There's many other materials this applies to, depending on where you are.

[kavok]

Sure 6 mm? It seems too  thin. I opened two holes on stern for engine hot air exaust and fresh intake. I still have the two vtr pieces that are about 11 mm.

[Yngmar]

Yes sure. As someone already told you in your other thread, the hull layup thickness differs in different areas, and your much newer boat may differ from our boat as well. You'll find out for sure when you remove your seacocks.

[kavok]

Yes, I must wait until the boat will out of water.
This is a peaty because I would prepare  backing plates in advance to have a total tichness that allow me not cut trough-hull and having right dimension for Trudesign collars.

 

[Salty]

.
This is a peaty because I would prepare  backing plates in advance to have a total tichness that allow me not cut trough-hull and having right dimension for Trudesign collars.

So either make your backing plates like large thin/thick washers so that you have to put two, three, four or more together to fit the job. That way you can adjust the overall thickness of the backing plates by adding or removing one or two in order to get to the thickness you need. Or better still have a length plastic rod of suitable diameter that you can measure and, being plastic, cut easily and quickly to the right length at the time to exactly fit the job.

All I would say is don’t over complicate things by worrying about something that is easily and quickly modified at the time of fitting.

The most important thing to determine before you start, is whether you have the necessary skills that you will need to do the job yourself, or whether you need technical assistance. One thing is sure and that is you will need someone to help you secure the fittings, because it’s a bit easier if you have someone outside to hold the through hull fitting in place while the backing plate and nut is secured gently on the inside.

[kavok]

Tank for your indications.
I''prefer not to put a sanwich of backing plates but a single. Cut from a tube a plastic backing plate I think is not a good idea because 3M 5200 fast cure do not adhere fine on these plastic ptfe based.
The skill is present, also my wife can able to help me. I could eventually call for professional help, but they are skilled on metal through hull and valve. I just have in my hands a 3/4 Trudesign kit, the bigger problem is that holes are very near, about 10/ 11 cm and I think to test a simulation on a piece of wood to see if is possible turn the ball valve on the through hulls. Whath was the distance on your boat between the center of two close holes?

[kavok]

Replaced the four fittings in the heads with Tru-Design valves and skin fittings. Bit of a tight fit on a B36(2002) resulting in having to fit the hose tails to the valves before fitting the valves to the skin fittings which were fitted last because of lack of space to turn the valves and with the skin fittings being screwed up from the outside before final tightening of the inner nut. Yes, I know that sounds a bit cockeyed, but there simply wasn’t enough space to do it the logical way. The old sea valves and skin fittings were starting to turn pink, but it was corrosion of the mild steel handles fitted to the old valves combined with their approaching sixteen years of age, and this thread, that prompted the change. Job was carried out during the over winter period ashore 2017/18. In general I’d say that the old valves and skin fittings would likely have lasted another two or three years. Next winter I’ll change the galley outlets with the same make of fittings which are already held in readiness for that job.
Because of the difficulties of the installation on a 36 with forward heads and three sleeping cabins, it could be worthwhile looking for fittings with less bulk than the Tru-Design fittings.

I think I'll have the same problem, holes too near each other. Minimum 9.5 cm, max 12 cm from the  two centers. I am thinking if is possible dismount the handles and screw two  ball valve on trough hull   in the same time so the handles axis do not met each other. What do you think about?

[Salty]

Tank for your indications.
I''prefer not to put a sanwich of backing plates but a single. Cut from a tube a plastic backing plate I think is not a good idea because 3M 5200 fast cure do not adhere fine on these plastic ptfe based.
The skill is present, also my wife can able to help me. I could eventually call for professional help, but they are skilled on metal through hull and valve. I just have in my hands a 3/4 Trudesign kit, the bigger problem is that holes are very near, about 10/ 11 cm and I think to test a simulation on a piece of wood to see if is possible turn the ball valve on the through hulls. Whath was the distance on your boat between the center of two close holes?

Firstly you don’t have to use ptfe based plastics, you can, for example, buy acrylic rod, tube of suitable diameter through eBay, or use acrylic sheet, and use Partite 73000 (MA300) adhesive which is a two part adhesive I have used and which bonds acrylic remarkably well.

As for how far apart of the existing skin fittings centre to centre distances I can measure them when next onboard. I’m not sure when that visit may occur, it might be more than a week away.

[kavok]

Tanky you Salt for your support.

[Salty]

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As for how far apart of the existing skin fittings centre to centre distances I can measure them when next onboard. I’m not sure when that visit may occur, it might be more than a week away.

In the heads compartment, within the cupboard under the washbasin where I replaced my original bronze skin fittings and sea valves, the spacing between the upper two fittings for shower and wash basin drains is centre to centre 103mm, while for the lower two fittings of flushing water inlet and black water outlet the spacing centre to centre is 192mm.

As I mentioned in an earlier reply, fitting the bulky Tru-Design valves in place using the original holes through the hull was not an easy task due to the very limited space within that cupboard under the washbasin. Doing a dry practice run revealed that there would not be enough space to fit the valves and attach the parts in the logical sequence of skin fitting first, then valve and finally the hose tail without some sideways thinking. It actually resulted in having to fit the valves and hose tails together first, then screwing the skin fittings in to them from outside without forgetting the internal flange which was attached loosely and was the very last part to be tightened into position with a liberal amount of sealant acting as both lubricant and seal.

Also in regard to sealing the individual pieces together, namely skin fitting to valve and valve to hose tail, I found that using PTFE string (available through eBay or your local plumbing shop) rather than tape did a better job.

[kavok]

Tank you for your spacing information.
My worst are 9,5 cm between two 3/4 fittings and 12,0 cm between one 3/4 and one 1,1/2 fitting.
I tried to reproduce these two situations by drilling a wooden tablet.
It is possible fit the trough hull before and then mount the ball valves and collars.
Where the spase is 9,5 cm is better mount and rotate the two ball valves at the same time to avoid the opening lever my be disturb each other.
Is possible mount before the straight tails, for 90° tails is better mount it at the end.
I will use 3M 5200 fast cure.