Bavaria 33c 2015 wiring routes to cockpit

[Ruby Tiger]

I wish to put a plotter in the space near the clutches at the front of the cockpit. Can be either side. Will need a waterproof gland.
Is there a way to route the the wires , one 12v and one NMEA 2000 drop cable (max 4metres) from behind the Bavaria switch panel
without unscrewing and taking off the top panel which sits to the front of the cockpit (half in and half out). If this is indeed a good method. I am afraid to break the seal as it is a major water path on the top of the deck.
My alternative is to run some white trunking from the corner above the chart table round to the companion way and then thru a hole to get to the other side of the canopy.

Any suggestions welcome....as I am an electronics engineer, I feel comfortable with installing, I just cannot get any info on the wiring runs and suggested routes. 
Thanks for any help

[Impavidus]

Ruby Tiger. Hi.

If you look at the Bavaria build video on you tube you will see that the cable routes in the roof/deck are all put in before the inner and outer are bonded. There are no ducts or conduit put in, the loom is simply laid on and covered up. 

I had a similar issue on my 37c when trying to route a small 6 core cable for the LED mood lighting. I ended up having to feed the cable down behind the fridge, across under the floor round the chart table etc, etc. A 3 metre run ended up being 6 metres and taking 3 hours to do!! There probably is some spare space in the ceiling grid but its impossible to up there from behind the removable panels in the cupboards! Electricians nylon draw wires, flexi rods and even the old compressed air and cotton trick did not work.

Can you get the trunking hidden behind the aft cabin door and bring the cable through the engine bay?

Best regards.

Ant



 

[Salty]

Can you ............ bring the cable through the engine bay?

On my B36(2002) which is an entirely different boat from yours, I fitted an instrument just to starboard of, and next to the companionway entrance. The wiring for this was brought up through the engine compartment. The wiring was tucked away into the starboard aft corner of the engine compartment and behind the sound insulation where it was then lead up through a space common with the engine compartment which extends up on that side past the companionway. I had already put a very thin drill through where the instrument was to be fitted, in order to determine the depth of the space available, and was satisfied that there was more than enough room for the instrument. Using the flexi rods that Ant has referred to I was able to get the wire where I wanted it. Cutting the hole for the instrument was done before pulling the wiring through, and with an instrument sized hole in place. It was possible to see pretty much right along side where the companionway hatch fits and on through to the area next to the hatch garage. Recently I have placed a solar panel on top of the hatch garage, and taken another set of wires from that panel through and into the same space where the cabling for the instrument fitted earlier. So in short on my older style boat there is plenty of room for cabling for a plotter and other instruments, and the trick is to use the engine compartment as the cable conduit. Whether you can do the same on your much newer boat is open to investigation, so take a look and see. Drilling an occasional small hole to check for sufficient depth means that if there is not enough depth that the hole can be filled simply with GRP and gel coat with virtually no harm done.

[ANTREVELL]

I own a Cruiser 33.  2013 . The garage roof above the saloon perspex hatch can be removed easily it is held in place by 6 or 8 screws this will allow you to drill a hole in the back edge of the sliding hatch area to access the main cabin ceiling .
Remove the small ceiling panel below the mast and the small panel aft of that. Remove the plastic trims around both roof lights .
It is then possible to feed the wires through to the mast foot where you will find a spare conduit ( there are 2) that runs down to the port ceiling of the shelf behind the seat . It is then possible to route the cable to the control panel area.

Regards Tony

[Ruby Tiger]

Hi Everyone ,
Thank you for all your valuable time and suggestions. Sorry it has taken time to reply but have been away from internet for a week!
I had seen the video and thought the wires as you suggest were just put in with gaffer tape!!
Thanks Tony, I see now it is possible to remove the top panel and use the ceiling routes around the roof lights. I will go this way if the run is less than  4metres, the max for data runs.
I am still going to investigate further the shortest route with some small drill holes my original thoughts of trunking or engine bay access, and will see if later boats have the same access as Salty's . I will then make the final decision.
It may be 2 or 3 weeks before i have it sorted, but will let you know how i got on.
Regards
Nick
Ruby Tiger

[Ruby Tiger]

I said i would come back and report progress
i have now
installed a vulcan 7FS plotter on the front of the sliding canopy with a flying lead (black). the lead is secured just inside the hatch the port side with cable clips across the top of the heads door  through the top  handle along to a point above the panel switch  and into my backbone.  It does not look pretty (but actually not that bad) but it means i can remove it when in port( leaving it connected and enough cable to rest it on the chart table) and being  moveable back and forwards allows easy access to the companionway.

I tried other routings on both sides front cockpit but as it is touch screen the best position was front middle, only achievable with a flying lead. The crew loved it.
I may try to route the cable later to neaten it up and drill holes to keep it  at ceiling height.  For info, the drop cable was 4 metres and the volts taken from the NMEA2000 at the end of the drop are not sufficient ,it drops  when auto pilot is on to 9v!  So first time out  Alderney trip had to run the motor when auto pilot on.
I am now installing  separate 12v from F4 on the dis board, which means 2 cables (black).
Thanks for all the inputs
Nick
Ruby Tiger

[MarkTheBike]

Sounds like a good compromise, Nick. Photos when you get a moment, please...