Sailing characteristics Bav 34 2000 vs 2008 model

[danbav]

Hello,
I am new to this forum, but still in search of a boat. I was looking for something that is spacious enough for a family of four to be sailed on the dutch inland waters but also the north sea. I got offered a very nice example of a Bav 34 from 2000 and another very nice Bav 34 from 2008. Both are reasonably priced and in good condition. Now, I read through all reviews I could get a hand on to see, whether there are any differences under sail. Most articles claimed they both sail very good. I read through the lines that the older model sailes a bit stiffer, the ballast ratio is also higher and the boat is slightly narrower, which on the safety side may be a plus. But, then the authors of the article about the older model also wrote, that the boat needs to be reefed at around 4-5Bft to prevent a broach. And on the other hand the newer Bav 34 was described to be very well behaving even at stronger winds, i.e. it sails "straight" (sorry for my bad english). This got me somewhat confused. Since all articles are written by different authors and the boats were sailed under different conditions it is hard to draw any conclusion. I was thus wondering, whether someone has already sailed - and maybe even owned - any or both of these yachts and help out with advice?

[Lazy Pelican]

We've owned a B36 2004 & B39 2006. Going upwind both need reefing above 15kts. i think you'll find that most Bav's are happier being reefed early- they sail just as fast upright with less sail and are much easier to handle.

John

[Salty]

We've owned a B36 2004 & B39 2006. Going upwind both need reefing above 15kts. i think you'll find that most Bav's are happier being reefed early- they sail just as fast upright with less sail and are much easier to handle.

John

I've got a B36 2002, and frequently sail with a friend on his B37 2001 and totally agree with John. In addition by reefing early you are in a better position to deal with any increase in wind speed being less likely to get caught out, and further to that it puts much less strain on the rig, and therefore less wear and tear both on the rig and in your pocket. The older boat will cost less to buy, but likewise its history may be less well defined, so you do need to give the boat a very thorough check or preferably get a good surveyor to look at it. Ask around locally which surveyor is best, not cheapest, and make sure their insurance will cover for any mistakes they may make. What you save on the price may have to be spend on new sails, running and standing rigging, and a decent engine and sail drive overhaul, but so long as there are no structural issues you should get an excellent boat and some change in your pocket.
Elsewhere within this forum there is an extensive checklist that was posted by Impavidus, under the heading of "Buying a Bavaria 31 cruiser - what to look out for." That initial heading was posted on March 06 2016 and if you haven't seen it already, it would be worthwhile checking back to find it.
In the past there was a lot of negative comment about Bavaria boats, but that was just sour grapes and nothing more than a pile of male cow dung by people who had paid more and got less of a boat.

[danbav]

Thanks for your replies so far - much appreciated. I had previously checked the checklist you mentioned and it appears that the Bav from 2001 is in excellent condition. Really nothing to complain about. In fact the 2008 model does not look really newer, and the price tag is really close. What I like more about the older boat ist the stronger 29hp motor. But, what I really wonder more about is how they compare under sail.

[Symphony]

The 34 was very popular when new particularly with charter operators. The 29hp engine is well worth having. The 34 was my first choice in 2001 when I bought a new boat for use as a charter boat, but it was sold out so I bought a 37 instead. Although the 37 was good, i still feel the 34 had the best combination of size, layout and sailing ability.

Does the boat you are looking at have in mast main? As others have suggested most smaller Bavarias designed by J&J (that is up to 2009) like to sail flat. This is because they have generous sail areas for good light airs performance and are best reefed around 15 knots of wind. This is generally easier with in mast (and the sail area is a bit less), but you will find once you get used to reefing at the appropriate time you will find you can still make good progress. The original sails were not very good and a better suit of sails from a good sailmaker will make a big difference.

on a more general note, many people prefer the older style of boat, particularly the interiors and the mid 2000's boats do not feel so good down below. If it is in good condition and well equipped you won't regret buying the older 34, although it sounds expensive if it is a similar price to the newer boat. Unless of course the newer one is in poor condition.

[MarkTheBike]

Hi Danbav

I have a Bav34 / 2001 with the 29hp engine and slab-reefed main. She was in pretty good condition and now, having lived with her for just over 2 years, I wouldn't swap her for anything. Single-handed is a bit harder without the in-mast reefing but doesn't take long to get used to. If there's two of you then it's a doddle. I also agree they're better to reef a bit early, and go much better if allowed to stay upright. Ear'oling is fun but pointless, you'll just go sideways and it's not nice. I don't know about broaching at F4-5, perhaps gusting 6's but it's just much more efficient (= quicker) upright. I've not seen inside a later model B34 but ours does have a lovely traditional feel with just the right amount of woodwork (although the galley area is a bit rudimentary - no microwave, uninsulated fridge, single sink, basic cooker). I agree with Symphony about the engine, you'll never run out of power and I absolutely agree with Salty about the surveyor; definitely get the best you can find.

Good luck with your choice.

[danbav]

Thanks so much for your input. The one I have looked at has a traditional slab reefed main sail. Boat has always been in private hands. They are asking around 48K euros. I would not sail her single-handed but with my family (wife and two kids).
I have also been looking at other yachts in that price range (e.g. Victoires), but they just don't compare in what they offer. A similarly aged and equipped Victoire or Dehler come with a price tag which is twice as high.
The newer 2008 Bavaria comes at 49K euros, but has been in charter - although on a private basis (i.e. less use than a comparable boat in the Med) - and is less well equipped (no radar and so on). I have not talked about money with the owners yet - so don't know the ultimate price. However, for me the ultimate decision would depend on their seaworthiness. With a slightly higher ballas ratio of 33% of the the older model and a slimmer body this point will likely go to the older model. Once again: what puzzled me was the report published in Yacht stating that the 2008 does well even at 6bft, where the older model was described as needing to be reefed at araound 4bft...

[MarkTheBike]

Hmm, could it have been a misprint and the article actually meant 6kts rather than 6bft? 

Further to Symphony's comment, the older boat's price should be haggled hard. Also, the price difference between the two is very small for an 8yr newer boat, even if it is lower spec / ex-charter; is the 2008 boat 'tax paid'? If not then it'll be a big extra! 

[Symphony]

The newer design have less ballast because they rely more on form stability with a wider beam and the keels tend to be deeper with more weight at the bottom, so the measured stability is typically the same.

[felixshmak]

Purchased a 34 2008 J&J design with single line reefing boom. As others mentioned start reefing around 17 kt (upwind, apparent). Handle much better single handed. But if you have a full team, reefing can be delayed. With the single line reefing boom, you are reef fast and safe as you just do it from the cockpit. It's very stable.  But once reefed, tha apparent wind angle will drop down to 45° from 35°. If it come with a cruising chut, use it - we try it at around 18 kt (true), it's more stable than just jib and main.

As long as you aren't a hardcore racer, you won't regret the purchase.

Never sailed a pre 2000 or post 2009 one, can't comment on them.

Happy sailing.