Wiring diagram BAV 41 2003

[aquapore]

The power supply to batteries and alternator of my Bavaria 41 (2003) has been modified by the previous owner. Does anyone have a detailed circuit diagram of the original. The manual does not give sufficient detail.

Thanks

[Nigel]

While waiting, draw a diagram of what you have now.

[killianfis.12]

i just rewired my entire B42. assuming mine was original (Im not sure) you should rewire it your own way. I talked to several electricians, including another bavaria owner, and they all said they are a bad system from the factory     

[Salty]

I talked to several electricians, including another bavaria owner, and they all said they are a bad system from the factory   

Did any of the people you spoke to explain in sufficient detail what it was that they found so bad with the factory installed systems that enabled them to come to such a sweeping conclusion?

[Lyra]

and they all said they are a bad system from the factory

A "bad" electrical system is a result of one or more of the following:
Bad basic electric design by selection of wrong components, wrong wire gauges, wrong power distribution between circuits etc.
and/or
Bad implementation design - location of components, wires routing and support etc.
and/or
Bad implementation - low quality components, bad workmanship 

Having seen quite a few battery based DC systems (not only on boats) my main criticism to the electric system on my boat is the use of wrong components and wires - most electrical components and definitely the un tinned copper wires are not suitable for long life service on a boat.
Another point would be for the poor accessibility of the components in the electric panel (have seen Bavs with better accessibility so maybe its a problem with some models like mine)

Other then that the design looks OK and the workmanship is acceptable - the only cases where I found poor workmanship were later additions/modifications - commissioning stage or the charter company maintenance -  like connecting the autopilot (although a small ST4000 motor) on the same circuit of the helm pod instruments.

[MarkTheBike]

I agree with Lyra in that, when working on Figaro (B34/2001), I found the original electrical systems are reasonably well designed and implemented, without using 'bottom-of-the-market' components. Most of it is easy(ish) to get to. With Figaro, the problems have been exclusively (so far) with the fitting-out by the commisioning agent, e.g. using 13a flex with the live supplying the compass light and the earth supplying 5 instruments + ST4000 + chartplotter from a 7amp trip. I'm not sure how it ever worked properly (and how many other boats did they botch-up the same way). Needless to say, the chartplotter now has its own power supply and the flex has been replaced with proper tinned multicore so all is now working without obvious glitches.

I note your comment about separating the ST4000 from the other instruments, Lyra, but how you would achieve that with an ST60 setup? According to the instructions, the ST4000 takes the power and passes it via the SeaTalk cabling to the rest of the cluster.

Aquapore - I'm back to the boat at the w/e, I'll see what I've got in the way of diagrams that you might be able to use as a rough guide... what engine is fitted?

[Lyra]

I note your comment about separating the ST4000 from the other instruments, Lyra, but how you would achieve that with an ST60 setup? According to the instructions, the ST4000 takes the power and passes it via the SeaTalk cabling to the rest of the cluster.

I do not have an ST60 so cannot remark about that, but I do have a Ttidata and a TacKTicK wind instrument which are fed  from a separate circuit (each directly, in parallel).
Not sure about this but I think that it is possible with all instrument to have one of them fed from the panel and the rest linked to it for power vi the SeaTalk, so I guess that if I had an ST60 it would have been possible to link it to the Tridata for power.

[Salty]

My B36 is the fourth boat that I have owned, and in comparison with the other three I'd say that Bavaria have done a better job by far in regard to the control panel than on those other boats. What I have here matches the neatness of layout of the control panels on any of the ships that I worked on during my seafaring career, including three ships under construction where I joined the ships during the fit out period and so have first hand experience in regard to seeing quality workmanship in action.*
Like Mark and Lyra, the only poor workmanship and poor quality installation I've seen on my present and previous boats has been the result of third party installations either by owners or after market suppliers of additional electrical or electronic equipment.
In regard to the wiring of the auto-pilot, I fitted my own, but I followed the instruction provided by its manufacturer, Raymarine, to the letter. In that respect and on my system, the power supply for the drive motor was taken directly from the course computer which had its own specific terminals for that motor. There were also separate terminals on that computer for connecting to the Seatalk communication system, and specific instructions to ensure that there was only a single supply of current to that communication system. The drive motor was very specifically not powered from the Seatalk system which does not have the ability to handle the kind of current that the drive motor requires, and which I'm sure would completely mess up any chance of the proper operation of the Seatalk communication system.
The only negative points that I have found so far in regard to the factory fitted electrical system has been the use of ordinary copper wire where that was provided instead of the much better tinned copper wire, and where as a result it suffers from corrosion. And the other negative is a rather skanky automotive cigarette lighter style of power point on the 12v distribution panel, where that and various power plugs that need to fit into it for recharging portable electrical items, also tend to suffer from surface corrosion.

*PS, they too only used ordinary untinned copper wire where the length of cabling used was measured in kilometres and where no doubt using tinned wire would have added considerably to the cost.

[Yngmar]

While tinned copper wire is undoubtedly superior in durability, I think its popularity in the marine industry is a relatively recent thing. If I had to guess it may have only become widespread in the last 10 years or less. I've helped a friend with the electronics on their 1986 Oyster (a fairly high spec. boat where certainly no money or effort was spared on fittings or materials), and the only places there was any tinned wire to be found at all were additions from the last 5-7 years (AIS transceiver, etc.). Everything else was only stranded copper - which is now failing due to corrosion. This includes cables from 3rd party suppliers, e.g. B&G and Furuno instruments, bilge pumps, float switches etc. - in fact you can buy the identical float switch from Rule now and the only difference seems to be the use of tinned wire.

I'd be interested to know what wires are being used on current Bavaria models.

[landes_h]

As Yngmar says, plain copper wires are the choice all around. Normally this is no problem, any connector or terminal crimped onto it will stay in contact. The problem is when you cut and strip the wire to make some alteration or want to solder the stripped end, it is all black and useless. This was discussed earlier, the black copper can be cleaned with copper cleaner, or mix lemon juice and salt with a little water in a shot glass. Put the wire end in it for a while and it will come clean. Rinse good after that.
I prefer to solder wire ends although this is against the rules (verboten ! ).
Tinned wires cost definitely more and we have a lot of cabling on our boats. Usually they ship builders use automotive wires being flame-retardant and resistant to oil and gasoline.