Wanted: Parts for Bavaria 42

[killianfis.12]

hello, my name is Killian and i have been fixing a bavaria 42 over the past two years that was totaled in a storm. i finally have all the glass work done, and i am trying to replace the electric now. I need just about everything. im trying to start with the electric panel, the one i have reads philippi-bootselektrik type stv p.20 i also need just about every other electronic that went in the boat. if anyone knows where i could find these parts, preferably in some sort of bulk deal, it would be greatly appreciated. I have been in touch with the closest bavaria dealer, but they are asking 2 k just for the electric panel. any advice someone might have would be greatly appreciated.   

[Nigel]

It would not be difficult to rebuild a Panel 20, all the parts are available.

[killianfis.12]

Thanks Nigel, Do you have any more info on that? where to get parts/ Go about it? Im a fiberglass mechanic, this is my first time getting into the electric side of boat repair. The boat was under water for two weeks before it was brought up and its been sitting for 3 years since.

[landes_h]

Why would you go for "Original Bavaria Parts" when you have to rebuild the electric. Since the boat was under water, each and every thing being electrical or electronic has to be replaced. Foremost all wires. The wires in Bavarias are standard household wires and usually all corroded at the ends (totally black). Therefor it makes no sense to keep them.
Once you put in all new electric devices, such as anchor winch, nav. lights, nav instruments, and all other electric in the steering console, internal lighting, bilge and other water pumps, motor electric, audio equipment, etc. you run all the wiring to the distribution behind the switch panel. At that point you can use any prefabricated panel with suitable fuses/switches, or design something that fits your particular needs. Meters for tank level and electric power could be installed separately.
In any case it's a hell of a job. You may even think about a bus-system, since you have to totally rewire the yacht.
You have my full sympathy 

[Salty]

landes makes a very valid point about both the wiring and the instruments, but in regard to the wiring, it's not just the ends that will show serious corrosion. I replaced the signal wires for my windlass and took out the original cabling from my B36. Once removed I examined the old cable at several points along its entire length (about nine metres), and not one bit of it could be salvaged for further use where the corrosion had travelled from one end right through to the other. It remains a continuing problem where other wires also show corrosion such that they will all have to be renewed at some time in the not so distant future, and my boat has not (yet) been under water, despite the concerted efforts of some charterers !!!
As for the instruments, you are to all intents and purposes starting off with a blank canvas, so you don't need to be restricted by what was there before. Make the boat your own and put in what you want rather than try to replace. Yes, it will appear different from other Bavarias, but apart from when you want to sell the boat, and at which time it's history will become apparent to a buyers surveyor, what difference will that make to you other than a potential saving in costs.

[Nigel]

For non-critical wires I have made good connections to a blackened core by dipping in Hydrochloric Acid until copper coloured, then water, then weak Sodium Bicarbonate, followed by a soak in alcohol.

[landes_h]

For non-critical wires I have made good connections to a blackened core by dipping in Hydrochloric Acid until copper coloured, then water, then weak Sodium Bicarbonate, followed by a soak in alcohol.

This is a problem onboard. You are right Nigel, of course the entire cable is corroded, not only the ends. However that's what one can see first, or needs to terminate.
Usually the chemicals you mention are not available oboard, so I mix lemon juice (little swirt bottles) and salt solution (desolve in warm water) put it in a small shot glass or egg cup and dip the wire ends for a while. It all turns back nicely "copperish". After that I solder the ends. I know soldering is not recommended, however I personally believe in it and have made the best experiences.

One could also buy copper cleaner (drug store) or get the chemicals you mentioned. My solution is usually already on board.

[Nigel]

I always have Hydrochloric Acid on board, for descaling. All European supermarkets sell it.

Why would you add salt!

[Salty]

Interesting comments there from both Nigel and Landes on how to remove the corrosion from copper wires. It's something I hadn't thought of, but it takes me back to my days as an apprentice onboard my first ship. On that vessel, amongst other work, one of my jobs was to clean the brass and copper around the ship's wheelhouse. That included the covers over the magnetic compass and the gyro repeater located on in this case, the aptly named "monkey island" deck. These were cleaned weekly and in the space of one week each helmet had turned bright green, and represented a good fifteen to twenty minutes each of cleaning time to bring them back to their former glory. At one of the ship's ports of call in West Africa, a couple of the seamen went ashore, and each came back the proud owner of a small monkey. In due course one of the monkeys escaped while the ship was at sea, and no prizes for guessing where it had made its home. One morning, and shortly after the Chief Officer and myself had been brought a slice of toast each and a cup of tea, the monkey ran out across an awning spar and reaching down it was able to steal the Chief Officers slice of toast, and then ran back and sat on top of the helmet for the gyro compass where it downed the toast and then urinated over the helmet. The green verdigris on the helmet disappeared in very short order, making my job later that morning very much easier than it might otherwise have been.
So my point is that you might be able to use a waste product that is more readily available even than lemon juice!!

[landes_h]

For descaling we use citric acid, usually in the squirt bottles as concentrated lemon juice, or in packages. We only need our senseo machine to descale so that I'm not so keen on chemicals.
I read on some web site about fixing corroded copper wires, and they recommended that solution with salt and citric acid. I'm electronic engineer and no chemist, so just follow the advice of what I read and it worked.
Now I see holding a monkey on board is not only exciting and entertaining but also useful. I'll think about it.

[Nigel]

I've also read about adding salt, but as it is salt that has caused the problem ...

[landes_h]

I've also read about adding salt, but as it is salt that has caused the problem ...

Once the wire is clean you dip it in your breakfast egg, or rinse the salt off.   

I think it is not salt what causes the problem, but oxigen. It causes the corrosion. Still, I'm not a chemist, but like eggs for breakfast 

[Salty]

Here you go Mark, see reply no 8 above

[MarkTheBike]

Here you go Mark, see reply no 8 above

I see it, Salty, and am now considering nipping down to said Zoo and put in an offer for one, perhaps even a couple to keep each other company when I'm not around. If I leave bananas and stuff, I'm sure they'll be fine. What could possibly go wrong? Any particular species, in your experience, leaves the copper more, um, coppery? And size - are we talking Spider? Capuchin? Would Bush Babies be enough if there's two? Orangs are nice, I'm told. Any burglars would have a moment, I'm sure. Yes, that's settled it for me. A couple of Japanese Macaques. Perfect. On the other hand, perhaps a pipette and the holding tank...?.