Refitting Stanchions

[Nigel]

I've just refitted some of my stanchions, all were leaking and wobbled, hardly surprising really ...



The job was made much easier with a tool I made to hold the stub in the right position while turning the nut below. These are made from Delron rods, M5 High Tensile Bolts, washers to space, and nylon saddle-spacers held in place with a small nitrile O-ring.  The hole in the Delron is a tight fit on the bolts, but a wrench is still needed to fully tighten.

In use:


The tools:

[aquapore]

interesting idea. I want to replace the four aft most stanchions with an alternative integrated with a targa arch incorporating davits and solar panels.
How are the stubs in your photo accessed for removal. Can you assist.
Regards

Robert Wechsler

[Yngmar]

The stanchion is secured to the stud with one screw just above the toerail - after that the stanchion just pulls out of the stud. The stud is screwed through the toerail and the deck/hull joint underneath. To get to the nut below, you'll have to remove the small strip of ply veneer from the top and rear of the lockers. The pushpit ones are actually accessible (more or less) from the lazarettes. An articulated spanner extension is helpful.

However, if you're just replacing them, you can leave the studs in place (assuming the sealant is intact and they aren't leaking) and just adapt the new arch to the existing studs. Please do show/tell us about your new arch (perhaps in a separate thread), as I want one too eventually.

[AFRiCA]

Had exactly the same issue with my 2001 B42. I haven't any photos but I used a heavy duty forged Stanchion Base part no. 81800 from the Whitworths Catalogue (Australia) priced at AU$35. The stanchion fits snuggly into the forged base with the through deck spigot remaining in place inside the stanchion. This provides athwartships stability.  The grub screws stop the stanchion from coming out and the forged stanchion base is screwed or bolted through the deck. Throw away the original large stainless steel washer around the stanchion and sand flat the raised portion of the teak deck to assist in the stability of the new stanchion base and to assist in a waterproof seal. Use plenty of sikaflex to maintain a waterproof seal and you will never have any problem again with the original through deck mounting.