Author Topic: Bavaria 36 (2002) Forward Berth/Back Anchor Locker Panels  (Read 1803 times)

dcreedon

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  • Boat Model: Bavaria 36
  • Boat Year: 2002
Hi, doing some prep work for fitting a windlass and I took off the panels in the forward cabin just behind the anchor locker. I took a bit of wiggling/struggling/feet wedged against roof etc... to get the panels out.  There are four screws, three down the centre of the two panels and one hiding just under the last cupboard.

How I did it -
Remove the mattress (and other stuff from the cabin).
Remove the white caps on the screws - flat head screwdriver. Unscrew all the screws - phillips head screwdriver. (bag and label them)
start yanking the panels from the bottom left to right, if you have caulk/filler between the panels and the roof/other side panels use the flat head to give it a bit of a poke to separate the panel from the caulk. Keep yanking left to right. (curse a bit) Finally they will come off.

Clean the panels - mine had mold on the back of them (bleach and hot water)

Behind the panels there is access to the back of the anchor locker, water pipes (in - 41mm inlet and vent - maybe 21mm) and the cable for the bow nav light and more mold for you to clean. Now also planning to replace the water pipes as they are manky.

I'm planning to run the windlass cables down this, connect them to the windlass controller/solenoid and on down past the water tank and back to the batteries etc.. on the starboard side.

Salty

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  • Boat Model: Bavaria 36
  • Boat Year: 2002
Re: Bavaria 36 (2002) Forward Berth/Back Anchor Locker Panels
« Reply #1 on: November 29 2020, 09:08 »
On my B36(2002) I found it easier to remove the panel from the port side first, don't know why, it just was. I had to do this about four times during the ten years I owned the boat. First to replace the badly corroded signal wires for the up/down control of the windlass, next was to inspect the damage and repairs carried out following the activity of a bunch of male idiots from the east coast of Scotland who chartered the boat and had a collision, next was to replace the cable for the forward nav light, and lastly when I took the Lofrans Cayman windlass off in order to examine the under side of the machine. Anyway, that aside the port panel came off more easily than the starboard, maybe something to do with being right handed gave me an easier pull that way.

I notice that the aft part of your chain locker is all constructed from GRP, while mine also had a thick plywood backing, both to the rear and undersides, and later I added stainless steel to the inside of the chain locker shelf. I’ve not got the photos anymore, but they will be somewhere here within the various threads in the forum.

You might find that the up/down control wires are already in place, but if not I’d suggest that you go down the route of laying them in ready for a manual control system, even if you intend using a radio control system, the manual back up might get you out of a jam if the radio system fails. Use tinned copper wires, to prevent corrosion of the wires themselves. If I remember correctly the up down control cable needed three internal cores, all of which when in use carried positive current. One carried the positive current forward to the hand controller, while the two others were energised with positive current going back to the windlass solenoid, but only when up or down was actually selected.
Good luck with the project.