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Look at different types of PU foam at local well-stock hardware store. I have seen some low-expansion foam types im my local store, planning to use them on fridge insulation improvement Job.


s/y Anniina

Slightly of topic but looking at the picture you shared on the question foam added or not.
I noticed that the exhaust of the heater runs underneath the filling lines of the tank. And leaking liquid has a chance the land on the exhaust drain de layer and catch 🔥.

Not sure if it you boat but I would not like this set up.

RGDS Ronald.
Great job, well done :tbu
Hi Salty and Yngmar
Salty- I think I remember reading and trying something similar to your solution the first time I lifted the boat out of the water for painting. I believe it worked somewhat but as your first attempt stated glue from tape I used dissolved and I never tried to duplicate your second solution. I may have revisit if a location can’t be found.
Yngnar - I have been wondering about a suitable location and your reasons are valid for not choosing those locations. I am going to see if on the 36 there is a suitable location and be careful of where I (gulp- leaked another hole in the bottom of the boat).
Hoping still for a magic remedy.
So, plastic weld complete--not pretty, but not visible either. Would like to do a basic pressure test before refilling tank--considering soapy water on the patch and pumping air in via: bicycle tire pump/dinghy foot pump/shop vac? Anyone done a DIY pressure test?

And finally a photo of the underside of the tank. As you can see the tank sits on two fairly small dollops of PU foam, and the last two-thirds of the tank are completely unsupported until it terminates with the glassed over cap. That this tank twisted and ruptured is no surprise, or shouldn't have been. Am leaning toward pouring a couple of quarts of two-part 6 pound PU foam in the center and then back at the end--tips on how to avoid putting unnecessary pressure on the tank when the foam expands?

Been putting to good use all the advice here, thanks.

Many thanks Salty.

I feel that on my boat, unlike yours, the original installation did not provide for an anchor light.   I have looked with binoculars and there does not appear to be one.   Also with the wiring, there are not enough wires.   

I much appreciate your warning regarding cabling corrosion and voltage drop.   I am now forewarned - so thanks!
I would be looking at the mast earthing cable to determine whether water was running down that cable from above, also from the mast itself. Many boats have a section of the cabin deckhead that can be taken down to allow access to the mast cabling. Whenever a mast is taken down, all of the cables that go up the mast would need to be disconnected within that removeable section of the deck head lining. Checking there, particularly after heavy rainfall or after sailing and taking lots of spray on the mast might reveal leakage through deck fittings which then runs down the mast support post inside the rectangular panelling seen in your first photo. It can be a real pain in the @#&% to fix so I hope that investigation shows the area to be fully dry. Talcum powder or blue tissue paper left in strategic places can help to identify the presence of water. Good luck in your investigations.
Modifications & Equipment / Re: New Thru-Hull for Engine Raw Water
« Last post by Salty on Yesterday at 08:04 »
I used to have problems with mussels entering the sea water intake in the saildrive leg, and initially I wasnt sure whether what I could see from the exhaust outlet to overboard was steam or smoke, but then when the engine over temperature alarm went off, the question was answered. Since then I have always soaked and flushed out the saildrive leg waterways each winter with vinegar. Soaking the waterways also meant temporarily blocking up the seawater inlets to the saildrive, and to do that I made up the kit shown in the photos attached. Using self adhesive tape to cover the water inlets on the saildrive leg was unsatisfactory because the vinegar attacked the adhesive and the tape came off within a matter of minutes. So two plywood blocks cut large enough to cover the side inlets were used, and to each if these I stuck some closed cell foam rubber about eight millimetres in thickness. Closed cell foam stopped the vinegar from reaching the adhesive that held foam to the plywood pads. Two sliding clamps were used to hold these in place over the side inlets. Next was to seal off the small hole inlet in the very bottom of the saildrive leg. For this I used about a two inch long 6mm bolt fitted with two nuts and two washers to clamp a rubber grommet into place. this was then pushed up inside the bottom hole and tightened as needed to secure the hole, but not until all water within the leg had been drained out. Next was to open the saildrive cooling water inlet valve and pour about a litre of vinegar into the seawater filter and leave it for a few days, The longer the better, and this would dissolve the mussel shells and leave the waterway clear. Yes, their relatives did come back, and hence the need to do this every time the boat was lifted out.
Later on I fitted a Nasa exhaust temperature monitor, and this would warn of overheating before damage occurred, though this was primarily fitted to warn me before a newly fitted plastic exhaust silencer might get damaged, and also as a warning if the cooling water valve had inadvertently been left shut.
On my B36(2002) an Aquasignal tricolour light was fitted which also had an anchor light as part of the system, with the anchor light fitted, if I remember correctly, immediately below the tricolour navigation light. Each lantern had its own light bulb and the combined fitting was supplied by a single three core cable. Two of the cores carried positive current, while the remaining core was the common earth. Because of Bavaria’s use of ordinary copper wired cabling and the consequent corrosion, I did have to replace the original and renewed it using tinned copper.
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Battery alarm
« Last post by Salty on Yesterday at 06:53 »
In the past I have used offcuts of left over vinyl floor covering, it worked a treat, it was compressible, and would otherwise have just been thrown away.
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