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Modifications & Equipment / Re: Teak deck removal
« Last post by Yngmar on Yesterday at 11:47 »
Thanks for the tips, keep 'em coming.

I've tried acetone, it does soften it, but evaporates in seconds and the caulk then re-hardens. Maybe I'll try again when it's colder and stick to chiseling away the teak for now.

Hydrochloric acid reacts a little bit with something (might've just been dust), but doesn't have any apparent effect on the adhesive.

Rubber block. Err, gotta see where I can find something like that. Sounds like it might be worth a try.

DCM may work, but I can't find a source in Italy, probably because it's horribly toxic.

The gelcoat underneath is in good condition, apart from the mystery deck holes, of which I've found several more previously undiscovered ones. I'm gonna have to buy more fast-cure epoxy to fill them as I go so the water stays out of the boat.

If I can get the moulded non-slip gelcoat cleaned up, there is no reason to attach or paint anything else onto it. Certainly not teak! :o

Jam, pressure washer and stiff brushes are the best I've come up with so far too. It's rather slow though, but luckily the glue is pretty non-skid itself so I have no problem going sailing for a year in the med and let the UV kill it off - based on how the Sikaflex I foolishly used in my early days of ownership is chalking off, the deck adhesive might just crumble off on its own in the sun :D

Beer always helps! Helpful neighbours have already offered me advice and random chemicals to try, none of which did much - including concentrated industrial strength PVC cleaner for lorry canvas.
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: B39 hull port leaking
« Last post by IslandAlchemy on Yesterday at 10:55 »
Only comment on Mirror's post is don't use Sika or silicone. Use Butyl.
Modifications & Equipment / Re: Teak deck removal
« Last post by Jam on Yesterday at 10:10 »
Have a friend that removed his glued down deck, also a Bavaria, completely and all glue.  Have spoke to him, he used a pressure washer but said that if it is too powerful it will damage the deck gelcoat. That was his experience and said he would recommend not using industrial pressure wash with high pressure. He spent a long time with a plastic scraper removing bits, cleaning with jet wash and scrubbing.  Also used CT 1 multisolve which helped but said the weather, rain, saltwater across the deck eventually loosed the bits left over.  It took him weeks/months and lots of patients I am afraid but I was amazed when he showed me the finished result. I am confident it can be removed......if I attempt my own boat.  Good luck with yours.
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: B39 hull port leaking
« Last post by Lazy Pelican on Yesterday at 07:36 »
Thanks Mirror- that’s really helpful!
Modifications & Equipment / Re: Teak deck removal
« Last post by Mirror45184 on Yesterday at 02:07 »
Try a soft rubber pad or block and "scrub" it off. Might work, will tend to just ball it up and possible get it off that way.....
Good luck and a lot of beer to help with the job may the part of the answer.
Challenge the neighbors with the problem and invite them to experiment and demonstrate!
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: B39 hull port leaking
« Last post by Mirror45184 on Yesterday at 01:58 »
The following was sent to me for a 2009 B40 Cruiser leaking forward hull window.

Remove plastic insert. It is attached with Velcro.
Undo bolts and remove window completely (you will require a person in the dinghy or on a wharf to assist or it could drop out)
You will find that the hatch was sealed with a foam tape.
When window is removed place on flat surface and fill with water to test if window is leaking between glass and rubber.
If it is and the yacht is still under warranty it is best to request replacement window. Photos will be required to prove leak and serial number of window.

If yacht is not under warranty and you do not wish to purchase new window you can attempt the following. Undo the screws and carefully pull apart the window being careful not to bend the joiners.
When removing rubber from glass, be careful not to stretch or kink rubber.
Coat rubber in lanolin grease or silicon grease and re-insert around glass but be careful not to pinch rubber when sliding frame back into place, ensuring a good snug fit.
Do up frame and then test with water by filling frame and rubber with water and see if it leaks through.

To fit back into the hull, completely remove all foam tape and clean completely. Run a bead of sikaflex/silicon or similar around hull where frame will be inserted.

Insert Window into hull and do up bolts a bit at a time crossing diagonally from bolt to bolt. Do not over tighten or you will squeeze out all the silicon.  Wait 24 hours and then hand tighten all bolts. (what you are trying to do is create a gasket and completely seal the window. There is always some flex in hull under sailing conditions and having sufficient sikaflex between the hull and the fame will allow flexing with out water ingress.
Replace plastic insert.

THe key step is to allow the silicon/sika/sealant to cure for 24 hours which creates a more flexible seal.
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Where can I get one of these
« Last post by Secret World on October 23 2020, 18:59 »
Just corresponded with Penguin Engineering in the UK:
 "These are £2.81 each and post via airmail is £4.25 Total £9.87." (Asked for 2).
That's delivery to Victoria, BC.
Modifications & Equipment / Re: Teak deck removal
« Last post by Laysula on October 23 2020, 18:29 »
Is that teak faced ply that you are removing? I'm just doing mine at the moment (teak faced ply) and i have done it with a hammer and chisel. However, the surface below is smooth so has cleaned up with a scraper and then a orbital sander with 60 grit. The hardest bit was the caulking around the outside which needed a lot of sanding with sandpaper around my thumb, In some places the adhesive has pulled up the gel coat, these bits I have filled with marine epoxy filler. Finish is unimportant as long as its flat as I am replacing with plastic teak.
The most frustrating thing though was some of the nuts holding the guard rail around the foot of the mast and the guard over the dorade vent are above the bulkheads and glassed in place.
Modifications & Equipment / Re: Dinghy Patch Fitting- remove and refix.
« Last post by Keweetoo on October 23 2020, 16:23 »
Another tip when using Bostik 2402 two part glue is to apply pressure immediate after contact using a small wallpaper roller available in DIY stores.
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Self Steering 'Grunting'
« Last post by Yngmar on October 23 2020, 14:08 »
Yes, the black thing is the drive unit. Originally a Whitlock item and now produced by Lewmar. The old Whitlock ones seem to last well, while some here reported trouble with the Lewmar manufactured ones. On the back you can see the pancake motor, in front of that are are few planetary gears and an electromagnetic clutch. All of this drives a sprocket, which drives a chain, which goes up through the binnacle and drives the axle of the steering wheel directly. A separate chain is also attached to the same axle and drives the cables that go back to the quadrant.

Can't find a good drawing of it, the manual I've got is this one:

But it's not quite right for the Bavaria binnacle, for one it doesn't show the second sprocket driven by the autopilot motor. Once you take a look at things you'll see how it all fits together though. Oh, the way to get a good look at the inside is taking the compass out of the binnacle, as the steering wheel axle with both chains on it is directly underneath. That shouldn't be necessary for this job though. Also the white panel that holds the engine instruments on the binnacle does come out and gives you access to the chain and where the chain attaches to the cables. Also not necessary to access for this job, but having a peek should enlighten you about how it all fits together.
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