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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Jefa Auto Pilots DU-TS Problems
« Last post by SofiaB on Today at 04:48 »
I also considered adding a Garmin rudder sensor as modification to the original design and this was actually suggested by Jefa.  This would require some engineering with fabricated brackets for mounting, along with testing. 

But, the original pot is very inexpensive ($10 US) and I was not convinced that I pot was simply defective so I replaced it and ordered a few spares.

However, I also found another pot with the same specs as the ETI Systems MW22B-10-10 Pot.  ETI Systems MH22B-10-10 is rated with a higher precision and wear.  MW22 is rated for 1,000,000 turns where MH22 (Hybrid) is rated for 10,000,000 turns.  So, I ordered one of these in case the MW22 fails.

Since August 2017 I haven't had any issues.  If I do have issues, I will try the Hybrid option.  My Spares bin actually has 3 MW and 2 MH, so I should be good. 

The Hybrid option is, however, a much higher price at around $80 (US). 

If both versions fail, perhaps I will try other options; possibly a servo based POT, which they also have as a special order item in the same case.  Time will tell.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Leaking fuel tank access cover
« Last post by canuck on Today at 00:05 »
Hi everyone - recently noticed 10 litres of clean diesel fuel in the bilges of my 2017 Bavaria 37C and on investigation found that the 6" screwed access panel on the top of the tank was leaking. I could tighten it
I am a bit surprised that there is an access cover at all in the top of the tank, especially since if I fill the tank to the top of the filler pipe, the cover would be under a pressure of two feet of fuel oil. I obviously need to not fill too full in the future, although this is hard to regulate.
I have a diesel heater installed and I am wondering from other posts if the access cover was added because of this.
Does anyone else have this access cover, and what would be the best way to seal this to avoid a future problem.  Am thinking of cleaning it up and siliconing it in place, but not sure about the effect of diesel on silicone? 
Any help would be appreciated. !!
Nigel
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Jefa Auto Pilots DU-TS Problems
« Last post by canuck on Yesterday at 23:58 »
I agree with Hidrotherapy - replace the Jefa part with a separate Garmin rudder sensor. It may require a bracket to support it.
I had problems with the Jefa part for two years. |Exactly as described by others. They found the dead spot at mid rudder position after replacing every other part of the system under warranty.  They changed the Jefa for a new one, and it was better for a few months, but then started to do the same thing - couldn't rely on the autopilot not to kick out on rudder calibration error.
They finally changed it to a completely separate unit by Garmin, and it has been working faultlessly for several months now.  Fingers crossed !
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2017 Bavaria 37 cruiser

1b - leaking windows. The long windows on the cabin sides (about 1500mm long) are plastic and the expansion is too much for the sealant to hold especially on windows facing the sun in the marina, which alternate between very hot during the day and very cold at night. THe sealant has failed at both the front edge and the joint between the front and back parts of the window.  Multiple repairs by the dealer have been unsuccessful.  The window should have been made of glass to avoid the expansion problem.
2c - the handle of the main 1/1/4" "bronze" sea cock for the toilet discharge just broke off in my hands after 26 months. The shaft appears to have been made of brass and not bronze, so it de-zincified.  The rest of the valve looks new.  Result - water comes in through the handle, requiring an emergency haul out !  Not impressed. Underwater valves replaced with the reinforced plastic Hansen valves.
10 l - The companion way hinges are basically some type of screw into the wood frame which come loose as a result of me leaning on the door when operating the cabin top winches.  The problem is that you can get the doors off without hacksawing off a st. steel pin that holds the door from being lifted off the hinge pins.   Will need to find a new type of hinge that is more robust.

Also - my latest problem is that the 6" plastic screwed access lid on the diesel fuel tank leaked and spilled 10 litres of fuel into the bilges.  The lid was a bit loose, but it cant really be tightened enough without popping off.  Wonder what the fix for this is??

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Well, I fitted it, and it took my batteries from 12.2v to float in 2 hours every day for 10 days during the second half of a transat from the Azores to the UK, where before we were having to run the engine for 6-8hrs/day just to get the batteries to break-even.

12.2v is generally considered to be 60% state of charge.  To fully charge your 675Ah of batteries would therefore need at least 270Ah (40% x 675).  Your 60A alternator simply can't supply that in 2 hours.
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I don't believe the hype.  I have one and believe what I see happening.

If you had an add-on smart regulator you'd see a similar effect, it's simply a case of getting the charge voltage correct at the batteries.
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I don't believe the hype.  I have one and believe what I see happening.

When I got it, the people at the boatyard said "it's just a box with flashing lights and won't help you.  What you need is a bigger alternator".

Well, I fitted it, and it took my batteries from 12.2v to float in 2 hours every day for 10 days during the second half of a transat from the Azores to the UK, where before we were having to run the engine for 6-8hrs/day just to get the batteries to break-even.
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Don't necessarily believe the Sterling hype.  The A-to-B charger is a clever bit of kit, but it can't generate any more electricity than the alternator can generate, at any given engine speed.  Alternators generally achieve their rated output at 6000-7000rpm, depending on pulley sizes this could be 3000ish engine rpm. 

The A-to-B charger achieves better charging purely by increasing the charge voltage at the batteries to an optimum level (the same thing can be achieved by adding a "smart regulator" but that requires some alternator modification whereas the A-to-B charger needs no alternator modification and hence preserves warranty).

One thing the A-to-B charger does do is allow the charge voltage to drop to a float level, which is something that add-on regulators don't do.
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From the Sterling literature....

ProAlt AtoB optimises the available output of the alternator (that varies with engine speed) and converts the output to mimic that of a mains powered multi stage battery charger.

How it works

In order to maximise the alternator output current, the alternator-to-battery charger pulls the alternator output voltage down to about 13V. Then this low voltage is amplified to a higher voltage suitable for effective battery charging, i.e. 14.1V to 14.8V.
The unit’s intelligent software automatically calculates the optimum charge in any cycle and absorption time. When the batteries have been fully charged, the voltage is reduced to float voltage (appr. 13.5V to 13.8V).

It is designed to pull this voltage down a little in order to enable the standard alternator regulator to produce its full current.
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Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Jefa Auto Pilots DU-TS Problems
« Last post by hidrotherapy on Yesterday at 14:15 »
This is usual problem with combination Jeffa - Garmin.
It is necessary to instal Garmin rudder feedback (cca 200 eur) and everything will be ok.
That problem I had on several boats and after that all function great.
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